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Morocco, Gorges du Todra
Introduction
The crags 1 2 3
Aiguille
Morocco factsheet
  
Morocco, Gorge du Todra, Monsour Plage


SECTEUR MONSOUR PLAGE

1 Borgonia city 5c+, 40m Slab on obvious pillar. One-move crux near the top.
2 Meritxell 5b, 45m Like Borgonia city but less cruxy.
3 Voie Rosbif 7a+, 25m Not recommended (badly bolted).
4 Sejour Maroc 6a, 30m Vertical slab with small holds.
5 Interrogation 5c, 30m Slab with small holds.
6 Couanne de trop 5c, 30m Slab with small holds.
7 Limonade 5c, 30m Slab with small holds.
8 ?
9 Castorama 6c+, 30m Nice, almost vertical, wall. Violent start followed by hard sustained fingery climbing.
10 Mr Bricolage 6a, 45m Varied sustained slab up pockets and edges.
11 Amiga mia 6b+, 15m Short fingery wall, violent crux start.
12 No name 6a+, 45m Good pitch. Initial slab followed but black corner.

Morocco, Gole di Todra, map
click to enlarge

Approach:
One minute from the track, right at the start of the gorge, 100m after Hotel Mansour. Avoid the river by crossing it at its shallowest point and traverse leftwards along a small ledge above the water's edge. The first bolts are visible up high.


The climbing
A 100m rope is recommended for top-roping. Fantastic rock, 10mm resin bolts, sometimes run out. Receives the sun all day. A 100m rope is indispensable for top-roping.

Morocco, Grges duTodra, Monsour Plage

Walking to sector Mansour, Todra gorge. Pilier de Couchant is visible in the background.

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