Climbing in Italy at Muzzerone


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	the sectors

Muzzerone and the recommended sectors

Recommended sectors

1. Garimpo
Small crag in a panoramic setting. Recommended:

Kerosene 6c
Garimperos 7a
Spettacolo 7c
Marmorea 7c+
Signor Dobberman 8a+

2. Parete Centrale
The most easily accessible sector. 70 well-bolted routes of all difficulties, almost all slabby. Recommended:

Trappola per topi 6b
Pissi Pissi Bau Bau 6a+
Gonna Fly now 6c+
Delirium Post Mortem 7c+
Stratagoing 7a+
Mamy on Sight 7b
Morte subito 7b
Barabino 6b+
Banzai 7c+
Rimedius 6a+
Punzoli e lamelle 5c
Lidia 6a+
Spit e Span 6a+
Primi passi 5a
Oscar 4
Vavavumba 6c+

3. Polveriera
Situated at the base of Parete delle Meraviglie it is ideal for cold, windy days. Stamina climbing up tufas. Recommended:

Fisiognomica 6b+
Albapower 7a+
Brain power 7c
No Smocking 7c
Galactica 7b
Non violentate Jennifer 7b+

4. Specchio di Atlantide
The hardest routes are situated here and the drop is just like in the Verdon. Recommended:

Fuga da Boux 8a+
Ovomaltina 7a
Shake 7b
Il leone 8a
Rosa Shocking 8b
No Siesta 8b

5. Atlantide Bassa
The most beautiful and imposing area at Muzzerone. Technical slabs on excellent limestone and an overhanging section on red rock, this sector is undoubtedly incredibly beautiful. Beware of falling rocks after heavy rainfall near the slabs (the righthand overhangs remain safe). Recommended:

La vispa Teresa 6b+
Arab rock 6c+
Stop col blues 7b
Gimmy Five 7b
Sentiero per cacciatori 6b+
Inox 7a+
Colpo di bianco 7b+
Magico Lipton 6c+
Jambalà 7a+
Ciao Alemao 6c
Ti Ringrazio 7b

6. Parete Striata
The wildest and most isolated setor at Muzzerone. Some of the best multi-pitch routes in Italy are situated on this 500m wide and 200m high wall, right above the sea. Recommended

Ultimo Volo per Miami 6c 200m.
Supernova 6b+ 200m.
Angina Pectoris 6c 200m.
Tempi duri 7a 200m.
Siddharta 6c+ 170m.

Number of routes of the most important sectors

Garimpo: 8 routes from 6c to 8a+, 20m
Specchio di Atlantide: 14 routes from 6b to 8b, 15m
Atlantide: 27 routes from 6b+ to 8a, 30m
Parete centrale: 90 routes from 4 to 7c+, 25m
Parete delle Meraviglie: 20 routes from 4 to 6c, 25 m
Poveriera: 12 routes from 5c to 6b+, 25m
Polveriera: 10 routes from 6b+ to 7c+, 30m
Parete Dimenticata: 5 routes from 6a+ to 7b+, 20m
Pilastro del Forte: 20 routes from 5a to 7c, 20m
Cajenna: 20 routes from 5a to 7a+, 25m
Parete Striata: 20 multi-pitch routes,
200 m high from 5c to 7a
Mandrachia alta: 20 routes from 5c to 7c+
Mandrachia bassa: 30 routes from 5c to 6b+

16 sectors in total

Jenny Lavarda
on Albatros 7c

Jenni Lavarda
on Albatros 7c