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| Introduction Arve valley - Getting there Tour d'Areu - The routes Balme - Maladiere - Vuardes |
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| The routes proposed
Eclipse |
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| Xenon 7b+ (6b obligatory) G. Brunot This route zigzags between the steep overhangs in the middle of the cliff. The climbing on this vertical face is both exposed and sustained, and the shallow pockets can be extremely sharp. The crux pitch (7b+) can be avoided by moving to the right - pegs, (A0). The rock is a bit friable on the first pitch. The protection is excellent but the exposure is quite considerable. The abseil must be done with great care (prussic loop). Given the steepness of this wall it is best to clip in some quickdraws during the abseil so as to remain near the rock. Two 60m ropes, 14 quickdraws and a selection of nuts. |
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