Burbage is divided into two areas, Burbage North and the former quarry, Burbage South. They face SW and NW respectively and are both less exposed than Stanage. The rough routes are quite short at the former, and longer and harder at the latter - be careful not to trash your fingers! Not recommended is John Dunne's The Partheon Shot, immortalised by Johnny Dawes in his video Stone Monkey. This route had to wait for many years before it received an audacious second ascent by the tenacious Seb Grieve (he took a number of falls onto a hollow flake - Britain's first E9 falls!). Equally dangerous is Dawes' The Braille Trail E6 6c, and this too has only recently been repeated. Most climbers come here to boulder though, and the problems, described in great detail in the guide, are excellent. While taking time out between one attempt and the next make sure to appreciate the spectacular countryside - and the odd millstone left behind from the industrial revolution.
Sunset over Burbage North
The Roaches, situated further south than the other areas, is extremely popular thanks to the large number of easy routes on offer. The Upper Section can be windy and the Lower Section, surrounded by high trees can become slimy and humid. These are minor problems though, given the length and quality of the routes. The imposing roof on the Upper Section is breached by the mega-classic The Sloth HVS 5a and the harder Painted Rumour E6 6a. Valkyrie on the Lower section is atmospheric and well worth doing and so too is Smear Test E3 6a - the name says it all! As a result of the Roaches popularity, parking has become a serious issue. Please only park in the designated areas or make use of the Park & Ride scheme in operation at the moment.
The Peak District
The Yorkshire Dales
Clogwyn Du'r Arddu