Ottovolante - Torre Brunico
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Planetmountain
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Ottovolante
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
F. Piardi, F. Tremolada, C. Zampieri 1997
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
N
Length
400m
Difficulty
7a
Obligatory difficulty
6b
Route
The climbing is both technical and strenuous, but never excessively so, on excellent rock. Bolts were placed on lead and even though a rack isn't really necessary, some small wires may be found useful. The numerous ledges ensure that the belays are generally very good.
Access
Approach the Torre Brunico by starting up the Val Setus before turning off left up a track for the via ferrata Tridentina. Before reaching two obvious boulders walk steeply up the scree to the Torre, heading towards the large corner in the center of the face. The route starts on a pocketed slab, to the right of the corner (indicated by a cairn). Allow 25 minutes for the walk-in. Descent
From the summit scramble quickly to the Sella plateau, then walk southwards to reach the path that leads to the rifugio Pissadù. Before reaching the rifugio, turn right down the Val Setus to the car. Gear
12 quickdraws, some small wires and friends.
Approach the Torre Brunico by starting up the Val Setus before turning off left up a track for the via ferrata Tridentina. Before reaching two obvious boulders walk steeply up the scree to the Torre, heading towards the large corner in the center of the face. The route starts on a pocketed slab, to the right of the corner (indicated by a cairn). Allow 25 minutes for the walk-in. Descent
From the summit scramble quickly to the Sella plateau, then walk southwards to reach the path that leads to the rifugio Pissadù. Before reaching the rifugio, turn right down the Val Setus to the car. Gear
12 quickdraws, some small wires and friends.
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Comments
26/08/2010 maivory
Via assolutamente da ripetere. Roccia eccezionale lungo tutto il percorso. Sul tiro di 6c c'è un chiodo risolutore. Il 6a+ dopo il tiro del tetto è fetentissimo, occhio!
relazione e qualche foto qui
http://themaivory.blogspot.com
ciao e complimenti a piardi
20/08/2010 Francesco
Bellissima via. Solo tre osservazioni:
1) Il quinto tiro è molto lungo e continuo: almeno 6b+
2) Il passo duro sul sesto tiro non è più di 7a
3) all'inizio del decimo tiro c'è effettivamente un chiodo che migliora la situazione, ma il passo più duro (6c) va fatto per arrivare al chiodo
20/08/2007 Ivan Antonucci
Ho trovato la chiodatura ottima; nell'unico tiro con passo pericoloso qualcuno prima di noi ha lasciato un chiodo in partenza, ottimo per un A0 - bella scalata - bella roccia, sostenuta e divertente, bravi gli apritori; a trovarne di vie così sicure (i micro camalot erano solo di peso). I tiri pìu duri sono i 6a+ (è sempre colpa del+)
15/08/2007 Marcello
One of the best routes I have ever done, and I have done many alpine sport climbs at Wenden, Rätikon and the like. Steep and sustained climbing on excellent rock, many pockets. Protection is good, though there are some runouts in easier terrain, especially towards the top. I carried a full rack of nuts and friends (up to Camalot 2) which I used here and there - I guess it could be done without, but I was happy to have the gear with me.
Beauty
First ascent
F. Piardi, F. Tremolada, C. Zampieri 1997
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
N
Length
400m
Difficulty
7a
Obligatory difficulty
6b
Route
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