Sognando aurora - Tofana di Rozes
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Sognando aurora
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Massimo Da Pozzo, Marcello Menardi 09/2005: 1st free ascent Massimo Da Pozzo 06/2006
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
South
Length
600m
Height
2650m
Difficulty
7b+
Obligatory difficulty
7a
Route
Beautiful, airy line up Tofana's south facing Pilastro di Rozes. It was first ascended from the ground-up over a three-day period in September 2005 by Massimo Da Pozzo and Marcello Menardi and subsequently freed by Massimo Da Pozzo in June 2006. "Sognando l'aurora" takes a superb line via sustained climbing through one of the legendary Dolomite faces, climbing to the right of Costantini-Apollonio and to the left of Paolo VI to reach the top of the pillar. This is possibly one of the best Massimo da Pozzo creations on the Tofane. The yellowish-red rock above the first ledge is superb and bar a few pitches which will be cleaned in time the rock quality on the entire 600m route is very good. Sognando aurora is destined to become one of the classic hard outings on this face.
Getting there
Drive to Rifugio Dibona, at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. This is reached from Cotina by driving towards Passo Falzarego, past Pocol and few hairpin bends, and turning off right up onto the dirt track following signs for the refuge. Access
Approach this climb by walking up to the base of the pillar from Rifugio Dibona. The route starts inbetween Costantini - Apollonio and via Paolo VI. The route starts on the left beneath the diagonal corner. Allow about 30 minutes for the walk-in. Descent
Traverse along the ledge towards the Punta Marietta buttress. Walk down the scree and ledges to the base of the buttress, and then walk around this on exposed terrain. Now descend past huge boulders to Rifugio Giussani. Gear
The route is bolt and peg protected. Take two 60m ropes, a set of friends and a full rack of wires.
Drive to Rifugio Dibona, at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. This is reached from Cotina by driving towards Passo Falzarego, past Pocol and few hairpin bends, and turning off right up onto the dirt track following signs for the refuge. Access
Approach this climb by walking up to the base of the pillar from Rifugio Dibona. The route starts inbetween Costantini - Apollonio and via Paolo VI. The route starts on the left beneath the diagonal corner. Allow about 30 minutes for the walk-in. Descent
Traverse along the ledge towards the Punta Marietta buttress. Walk down the scree and ledges to the base of the buttress, and then walk around this on exposed terrain. Now descend past huge boulders to Rifugio Giussani. Gear
The route is bolt and peg protected. Take two 60m ropes, a set of friends and a full rack of wires.
See all photos
Comments
21/07/2009 albino & gianni dorigo
stupenda, mentale, impegnativa, complimenti agli apritori.
noi l' abbiamo fatta ieri lunedì 20 luglio 2009, freddo terribile e nebbia, un invito a tutti coloro che vogliono provare un alpinismo impegnativo, anche con la presenza degli spit, buon ingaggio.
24/06/2008 Georgo
Beautiful line up an imprassive face, the yellow rock in the upper part is better than you would expect,congratulation to the first accsenders, a real good job, and keep on moving!!!
28/07/2007 Marco Zandegiacomo
Bella via, complimenti agli apritori.
Beauty
First ascent
Massimo Da Pozzo, Marcello Menardi 09/2005: 1st free ascent Massimo Da Pozzo 06/2006
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
South
Length
600m
Height
2650m
Difficulty
7b+
Obligatory difficulty
7a
Route
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