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Sognando aurora

First ascent: Massimo Da Pozzo, Marcello Menardi 09/2005: 1st free ascent Massimo Da Pozzo 06/2006
By: Planetmountain
Area: Dolomites, Group: Tofane, Peak: Tofana di Rozes, Height: 2650m, Country: Italy, Region: Veneto

Beautiful, airy line up Tofana's south facing Pilastro di Rozes. It was first ascended from the ground-up over a three-day period in September 2005 by Massimo Da Pozzo and Marcello Menardi and subsequently freed by Massimo Da Pozzo in June 2006. "Sognando l'aurora" takes a superb line via sustained climbing through one of the legendary Dolomite faces, climbing to the right of Costantini-Apollonio and to the left of Paolo VI to reach the top of the pillar. This is possibly one of the best Massimo da Pozzo creations on the Tofane. The yellowish-red rock above the first ledge is superb and bar a few pitches which will be cleaned in time the rock quality on the entire 600m route is very good. Sognando aurora is destined to become one of the classic hard outings on this face.

GETTING THERE

Drive to Rifugio Dibona, at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. This is reached from Cotina by driving towards Passo Falzarego, past Pocol and few hairpin bends, and turning off right up onto the dirt track following signs for the refuge.

ACCESS

Approach this climb by walking up to the base of the pillar from Rifugio Dibona. The route starts inbetween Costantini - Apollonio and via Paolo VI. The route starts on the left beneath the diagonal corner. Allow about 30 minutes for the walk-in.

DESCENT

Traverse along the ledge towards the Punta Marietta buttress. Walk down the scree and ledges to the base of the buttress, and then walk around this on exposed terrain. Now descend past huge boulders to Rifugio Giussani.

GEAR

The route is bolt and peg protected. Take two 60m ropes, a set of friends and a full rack of wires.

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COMMENTS for the route "Sognando aurora"

21-07-2009, albino & gianni dorigo
stupenda, mentale, impegnativa, complimenti agli apritori. noi l' abbiamo fatta ieri lunedì 20 luglio 2009, freddo terribile e nebbia, un invito a tutti coloro che vogliono provare un alpinismo impegnativo, anche con la presenza degli spit, buon ingaggio.
24-06-2008, Georgo
Beautiful line up an imprassive face, the yellow rock in the upper part is better than you would expect,congratulation to the first accsenders, a real good job, and keep on moving!!!
28-07-2007, Marco Zandegiacomo
Bella via, complimenti agli apritori.
Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

7b+

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7a

FACE

South

LENGTH

600m

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