Italo Svizzera - Cima Ovest di Lavaredo

Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Candido Bellodis, Beniamino Franceschi, Albin Schelbert, Hugo Weber, 1959
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
N
Length
500m
Height
2973m
Difficulty
7b
Obligatory difficulty
6/A2

Route



The route climbs the center of the wall through the imposing overhangs. Aid was used on the first ascent, but nowadays it goes free at 7b. Either follow the original line in the upper section or, recommended, climb up the Cassin.
Getting there
The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo.
These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo, situated at the end of the road and either sleep here or in Rifugio Lavaredo, reached by following the path for 15 minutes underneath the majestic South Faces which contain, amongst many other famous routes, the Spigolo Giallo. Access
From Rifugio Auronzo take path no.105 to Col di Mezzo and continue to the North Face. Follow the track across the scree to the base of the route. Start beneath the enormous overhang, at the start of a leftwards leading ledge. Descent
Reach the ledge and traverse right onto the South Face. Descend for 20m to a col that faces Cima Grande. Descend left into a gully, first left, then right, to avoid the boulders in the middle. Continue down the gully to the scree slope between Cima Grande and Cima Ovest. Gear
There is in-situ gear along the route, and some bolts at some belays.




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23/07/2007 Luigi
Via molto strapiombante, chiodata con parte di stit.Collegata con la Cassin dopo le difficoltà. Necessaria molta resietenza per una ripetizione in libera, comunque possibile vista la chiodatura abbondante.Quasi non necessari nut e friend.Roccia non solida come la soprastante Cassin.