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Balbic

First ascent: L. Majoni & M. Alberti, 1994
By:
Area: Dolomites, Group: Spalti di Col Becchei, Peak: Col Becchei, Country: Italy

This is one of the newest routes, with the bolts and pegs placed on lead. The hardest sections are to be found in the first half, where the route follows a line between the large corner (Los Angeles) and Thriller, avoiding the two obvious roofs. After the shared belay the route eases off for two beautiful pitches, before joining up with Los Angeles for the final pitch.

GETTING THERE

From Cortina drive towards Dobbiaco along the SS51. After the small village Fiames turn left off the main road (signposted Val di Fanes - Trevenanzes). Park the car at the entrance to the park and continue on foot. Follow signs for Fanes, over several bridges and along the forest road. After a few bends the path straightens out and continues along the valley floor, past the Taé walls on the right, and then on to the Spalti di Col Becchei. The path forks at this point; go right over a small bridge onto the other side of the valley floor towards the Spalti. A cairn indicates a small path leading off rightwards through the wood steeply up to the rock face. To reach Illusione Ottica and Thriller scramble up the scree, traverse leftwards along an exposed section beneath a band of rock, and then return rightwards. The other routes are reached more easily by walking directly up to the base of the crag. Taé’s routes are reached by crossing the bridge and briefly following the road, to then ascend the gully on the right. Reach the pine trees and then scramble up the ramp rightwards to the base of the wall.

ACCESS

Start at the bolt to the right of Thriller.

DESCENT

As for Illusione Ottica and Thriller.

GEAR

Although bolts and pegs protect the harder sections, bring a set of wires & friends for the easier pitches.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

7b+

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7a A1

FACE

SW

LENGTH

300m

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