Männer die auf Wände starren Rotwand / Roda di Vael - Rosengarten

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Männer die auf Wände starren - Rotwand / Roda di Vael - Rosengarten

Italy>Trentino - Alto Adige>Dolomites>Rosengarten>Rotwand / Roda di Vael - Rosengarten

Simon Messner

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Männer die auf Wände starren: Rotwand, Dolomites

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

Simon Messner, Philipp Prünster, Martin Sieberer 10/07/2022

Simon Messner

Difficulty

VIII

Route

Männer die auf Wände starren is a little gem on the Rotwand. It runs fairly close to the Casarotto route, but never crosses it. Furthermore, it provides has the same good rock as the Casarotto, and this only begins to lose quality from the large ledge onwards. A little more caution is needed here. With the exception of two pegs (see topo), the entire route needs to be protected with trad gear but some threads are already equipped with cordlets. The crux is right at the end, on the last pitch (VIII) and it is mandatory to free climb it (a cam #4 is very useful, even if one can manage without). Almost all the belays are equipped, but they need backing up (in particular the second belay, constructed entirely with cams or nuts, see topo). While Casarotto's logical line is the king line on this section of the red wall, Männer die auf Wände starren has its merits because, as mentioned, the two lines do not cross each other, the rock (especially on the lower section) is excellent and the line is an obvious gift of Mother Nature.

Getting there
Reach Karerpass Access
From Karerpass walk up to the base of the mountain in about 1h 15 min. Descent
Via the via ferrata, which passes right at the exit, descend down to the Rotwandhütte and continue of down to the Karerpass Gear
For the last pitch (crux pitch) a cam #4 is recommended (we didn't have one, so it's possibile without), slings and 2 x 50m half ropes.