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Pilastro Nord

First ascent: Paolo Baroldi, Filippo Mosca, Francesco Salvaterra 3-4/09/2016
By: Francesco Salvaterra, Mountain Guide
Area: Dolomites, Group: Brenta, Peak: Cima Tosa, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige

Great route on the right arête of north-east face of Cima Tosa. The climb has three distinct sections: the starting chimney (often wet), the gray central pillar and the wonderful and vertical final pitches that breach the overhangs and lead to the top.

Despite the relatively easy technical difficulties, Pilastro Nord is a serious undertaking because of its length, distant gear and sections of poor quality rock that is difficult to protect.

Ideal for those in search of an adventure, in particular in autumn before the snow plasters the wall.

ACCESS

From Rifugio Brentei reach the base of Canalone Neri, scramble up this (not particularly steep) to below the obvious Y-shaped chimney. Start a few meters to the lef to of the chimney (waterfall), passing the stepped terrain.

DESCENT

Down the Normal Route along the South Face. (II, two short abseils, difficult route finding).

GEAR

Friends to #2, microfriends, pegs and hammer. 10 pegs were used and left in-situ; plenty of threads and slings over flakes.

NOTES

In August 1981 Berta Piercarlo and Gianni Giudicati made a serious attempt climbing almost the same route, stopping just below the finishing overhangs and abseiling down the route. We gathered this information at Rifugio Brentei; just one thread was found in-situ.

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DIFFICULTY

VI-

FACE

North

LENGTH

700m

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Recent Comments Ice
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