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Renegade

First ascent: Iwan Canins, Peter Moser December 2015
By: Planetmountain.com
Area: Dolomites, Group: Tofane, Peak: Primo Spigolo Tofana di Rozes, Height: 2650m, Country: Italy, Region: Veneto

Pleasant new rock climb first ascended by Iwan Canins and Peter Moser that explores the compact slabs and dreamlike rock to the right of the famous Aspettando la vetta, put up by local climber Massimo Da Pozzo in 2004 on the Primo Spigolo of Tofana di Rozes.

GETTING THERE

Drive to Rifugio Dibona, at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. This is reached from Cotina by driving towards Passo Falzarego, past Pocol and few hairpin bends, and turning off right up onto the dirt track following signs for the refuge.

ACCESS

Approach this climb by walking up to the base of the pillar from Rifugio Dibona. The route starts in the gully to the right of Aspettando la vetta and  Il mio criceto.

DESCENT

Once at the ledge, you can exit via the Ferrari route or the classic Spigolo arete.

NOTES

Almost all belays are equipped with excellent threads and it is possible a abseil down the route. We left all the gear instu and the route was cleaned of loose rock for future ascentionists. Some pegs were placed to indicate the line of ascent.

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DIFFICULTY

7+/8-

FACE

South

LENGTH

330m

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