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Fisioterapia d'urto

First ascent: Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi, Nicola Sartor, 3 days September 2011 and 24/07/2013. FFA: R. Larcher and L. Giupponi 4/08/2013
By: Rolando Larcher
Area: Dolomites, Group: Brenta, Peak: Cima Dagnola, Height: 2195m, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino Alto Adige

Technical and demanding climb protected by a mix of trad gear and bolts. The route climbs a line in a wild but realatively easily accessible setting. The route faces north and is ideal for the summer months.

GETTING THERE

From the Cavedago sports field take the forest track for Malga Dagnola Bassa, path #353. Follow this road to the hairpin bend where a path forks off right for Malga Spora, # 301. 50 minutes walk (this point can be reached by car by asking for permission from the   Cavenago town council, tel. 0431/654 213 - do not park at the hairpin but in the clearing 100m before this). Continue for about 35 minutes via the path "Sega granda" that runs along the steep northern flank of the Cima Dagnola. When the path leads away from the rocky flank, and 300m before reaching a fountain, ascend left the obvious gully and reach the base of the face in 5 minutes.

ACCESS

The route starts close to a small cave, half-blocked by a boulder, ideal to stash rucksack and gear.
BEWARE: 20m to the right there is another route, not finished, marked at the start with a thread.

DESCENT

Abseil down the route.

GEAR

2 x 60m ropes, a set of Totemcams, 0 & 00 BD, 1 yellow and 1 blue Camalot BD, small and mid size nuts, 12 quickdraws, kevlar threads and slings.

NOTES

First repeat carried out by Manuel Bontempelli and Silvestro Franchini.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

7c+ / 8a

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7b

FACE

North

LENGTH

350m

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