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Agoge

First ascent: Simon Gietl, Manuel Gietl, 05-06/2012
By: Planetmountain
Area: Dolomites, Group: Fanis, Peak: Cima Scotoni, Country: Italy

The route climbs good rock up an interesting mix of cracks, slabs and overhangs. Only in three sections is the rock slightly friable, namely on the three crux pitches. Due to the bad weather we established the route after a series of attempts in May and June. Apart from the few in-situ pegs, the route needs protecting with trad gear. All things considered Agoge is a beautiful route but to climb it you need a good dose of courage, determination and route-finding skills to climb the long sections which don't have pegs.

ACCESS

Approach the Cima Scotoni by walking from the Capanna Alpina up the path no. 20 to the rifugio Scotoni and continue past the small lake along a trail to the base of the mountain. Scramble up the left-hand side of the broken pedestal to the first bolt (50m III). Allow at least an hour for the walk-in. The route starts circa 50m right of Via Lacedelli

ROUTE

P1: IV+, 55m
P2: V, 35m
P3: VIII, 30m
P4: VIII/VIII+, 30m
P5: VII+, 35m
P6: VI-, 40m
P7: IV+, 55m
P8: V-, 20m
P9: VII, 35m
P10: VI-, 20m
P11: VIII-, 35m
P12: V+, 25m
P13: VI-, 35m
P14: V, 30m

DESCENT

Traverse along the second ledge and descend easily to the Torre del Lago pass. Descend along the path from here.

GEAR

Take a rack of nuts and camming devices, as well some pegs. belays are equipped with 2-3 in-situ pegs.

NOTES

8 - 10 hours for a repeat.

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COMMENTS for the route "Agoge"

13-07-2012, MESSINI Vittorio
12.07.12 Abbiamo ripetuto ieri la via Agoge. E' una via che richiede ingaggio psicologico nei tiri piu' facili, poiche' sono friabili ed hanno lunghi passaggi fra i chiodi. Ma richiede anche forza nei tiri difficili, che sono ben protetti, con una buon qualita' di roccia. Le soste sono ottime, ma e' consigliabile di portarsi con se qualche chiodo. Le linea e' bella, ache se bisogna cercarla un po'. La nostra dovrebbe essere stata la prima ripetizione. In ogni caso complimenti agli apritori, bravissimo Simooooon!
Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

VIII/VIII+

FACE

Soutwest

LENGTH

400m

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