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Lumignano Classica

By: PlanetMountain
Country: Italy, Region: Veneto, Town: Lumignano (Vicenza)

Lumignano is one of the most important crags in Northern Italy. During the 1980’s, at the start of modern sports climbing, the red and orange streaked "Lumignano classica" was the focal point for many of the best climbers in the world, and even today the crag is appreciated not only for its quality limestone and beautiful routes, but also for the historical value of many of the lines.

Climbing began here as early as 1924 with the first ascent of the corner-crack "Sbrega" by Severino Casara. Renato Casarotto made numerous important ascents during the ’70’s, as did Heinz Mariacher during the early ‘80’s. Much new route activity was carried out by the local Michele Guerrini, with notable contributions by Martin Scheel and Manolo.

GETTING THERE

Lumignano lies a few kilometers south of Vicenza. From Vicenza follow the highway SS247 (signposted Este), which runs alongside the Colli Berici. Turn right for Costozza and Lumignano immediately after Longare: the crags come into view shortly after the first of these two villages. To get to Lumignano classica drive past the church and continue up the narrow road to its end. Park the car close to the large boulder, or in signposted car park 300m lower down.

THE CLIMBING

The climbing is highly technical and demanding, and the routes tend to be bouldery and undergraded. In the overhanging “strapiombi” section the routes are athletic on painful pockets, while the technical vertical walls require excellent footwork.

FOOD AND ACCOMODATION

Lumignano is a small village with only a few bars and one small supermarket. B&B In Valle, Longare, 0444/958223 The nearest campsite is in Vicenza: Campeggio Vicenza, tel. 0444/582311, Strada Pelosa 239.

NOTES


Video Lumignano

BIBLIOGRAPHY

"Lumignano, arrampicate nei Monti Berici" by Michele Guerrini and Andrea Minetto, Editore Antersass

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BEST TIME OF YEAR

Spring and autumn, and winter. The best time of year for Lumignano classica is winter. Climbing is not possible in summer due to the heat.

HEIGHT

80 m

ROPE

60m rope

GRADES

5a - 8b+

ROCK

Limestone

ORIENTATION

SW

NUMBER OF ROUTES

104

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