Cornalba climbing in Lombardy, Italy
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 ROCK - CRAGS
Cornalba
Lombardy - Italy
by Nicola Noè, Beppe Dallona

"Cornalba is perhaps not as popular as it once used to be because the climbing style is no longer in vogue: slightly overhanging face climbing, with routes that are technical and complicated. The few repeats are testament to this change in style, and nowadays those who climb hard and compete mostly train on overhangs. Nevertheless Cornalba has an incredible potential, especially in its central section, but one really has to work at it." These the words of Beppe Dallona, perhaps Cornalba's most devoted local.

Getting there
Take the motorway A4 Milano-Venezia, exit at Dalmine and turn off left for Val Brembana. After 11 km join up with th SS40 and keep left for Val Brembana. After Zogno (22 km), turn right for Zamba-Cornalba and enter Val Serina. After 10km turn off right following signs for Cornalba, and after 1km turn right again. Reach the village centre and follow signs for the crag. Parking is possible close to the Bar-Restaurant Vico (tel. 0345-66446). From the bar continus on foot in 10 minutes to the crag.

The climbing
Technical vertical face climbing. Routes tend to be crimpy and cruxy.

Food and Accommodation
Bar-Restaurant, B&B Vico (tel. 0345-56719).
Camping Clusone Pineta in Clusone Tel. 034 636599
Ostello dei Tasso in Canerata Cornello, Tel: +39 034 54157.
Ostello della Gioventù, Via Ferraris 1, Tel: +39 035 361724.
B&B Casa Fiorita, Cornalba, Tel: +39 0345 66411,
E-Mail: casafiorata.sonia@libero.it.
Albergo Tranquilla, Algua Tel.: +39 0345 97143.
Bar VIC Cornalba, Tel.: +39 0345 56719

Notes
Adam Ondra, Goldrake 9a+, Cornalba
14/04/2010 Outsider, 8a+ for Angelika Rainer at Cornalba
07/04/2010 Adam Ondra, Goldrake 9a+ at Cornalba
21/04/2009 Adam Ondra raids Italy
25/03/2009 Adam Ondra climbing at Angelone and Cornalba
29/03/2007 David Lama at Cornalba and San Pellegrino Terme
04/01/2005 Parimbelli frees Zuper-Mandrake 8c/8c+
17/03/2003 Alippi repeats Les Sindacalistes 8c+
10/03/2003 C'era una volta in America" for Yuri Parimbelli
26/02/2001 "Once upon a time in America" 8c for Cristian Brenna
 INFO
 Portfolio
Sectors and routes
 Parete Sud Tempi Nuovi
 Parete Sud Apache
 Parete Sud Dolce Vita
 Parete Est Figli del Vento
 Parete Est Jedi

Click to enlarge
Location: Cornalba
Province: Bergamo
Best time of year: The altitude (1100m) and the orientation south and east make climbing possible all year round.
Rock: Excellent slightly overhanging limestone.
Gear: Stainless steel or resin bolts, run-outs not uncommon.
Rope: 70m
Beauty:
Height: 200m
Orientation: S, E
Grades: 6a - 8c+
Bibliography: "Pesci, Quaresima, Capucciati, Tassi - Arrampicate Sportive fra Bergamo e Brescia - Edizioni Versante Sud, 1996".

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Cover: Torre Egger, Patagonia. Photo by Thomas Senf
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