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Muzzerone Atlantide Bassa

By: Davide Battistella
Country: Italy, Region: Liguria, Town: Portovenere (La Spezia)

This is one of the most beautiful and imposing crags in Muzzerone, situated in an area which is incredibly wild and of a rare beauty. As the name suggests, the crag is infact the lower section of Specchio di Atlantide; routes on the left are climb the sharp slabs, while the routes on the right climb through the demanding overhanging red rock band.

This crag is recommended for the winter season as it is extremely sheltered from both North and South winds, while during summer it heats up like an oven... Watch out for sunstroke!

The routes, even though rebolted recently, can be fairly run out at times, offering "spectacular" falls compared to normal. Rebolting is expected soon.

GETTING THERE

Muzzerone is situated 15 km from La Spezia. Drive towards Portovenere and turn right before reaching Le Grazie (sign posted "Palestra di Roccia"). Follow this for 4km to a fork in the road: turn left and descend past several hairpin bends to Muzzerone. This can also be reached on foot via the panoramic sea paths from Portovenere (path No. 1 or 1a in 30 minutes).

THE CLIMBING

Excellent limestone on often painful edges and pockets. Highly technical and elegant climbing - good footwork essential. There are plenty of overhanging sectors, too. La Polveriera is great for stamina climbs up tufas, while Specchio di Atlantide requires finger strength and courage with its Verdonesque drop. Parete Striata remains uncontaminated and wild and is ideal for multi-pitch routes.

FOOD AND ACCOMODATION

Good refuge 20 mins from Muzzerone by car and 15 mins on foot via a panoramic path. The refuge contains 30 beds, a kitchen and large rooms ideal for lectures or lessons. The sea can be reached in about 20 mins from the refuge, and other paths that lead into the National Park start from here. - Cell. 340.8098720 ETTORE - Mail: rifugiomuzzerone@libero.it

NOTES

The Muzzerone sea cliffs, situated high above Portovenere, form the extreme tip of the Cinque Terre National Park. This western flank of the Gulf of La Spezia is also known as the Gulf of the poets.

This area is characterised by silver pillars and white limestone faces that precipitate steeply into the sea, and a flora composed of maritime pines and plants typically associated with the Mediterranean environment.

So why visit this area? Because Muzzerone is an area of quite incredible natural beauty. Its cliffs fall steeply into the blue sea, offering marvellous routes and a fantastic spectacle; seagull, raven and falcon display their ability in highly evocative surroundings. Almost all sectors are difficult to reach and this is perhaps the reason why Muzzerone is never overcrowded, since in the past climbers have preferred other crags such as nearby Finale Ligure.

Since climbing is much more than an athletic gesture, Muzzerone is best suited for those in search of bolts, micro-edges and, above all, nature. This element definitely abounds here.

Recommended sectors (540 routes in total)
1. Garimpo
2. Parete Centrale
3. Polveriera
4. Specchio di Atlantide
5. Atlantide Bassa
6. Parete Striata

Other crags within a 50 km radius:
Monte Marcello: 15 km from La Spezia, 21 routes from 5c to 7c
Gabellaccia: 40 km from La Spezia, 60 routes up to 8b+
Deiva Marina: 40 km. from La Spezia, 40 routes from 5a to 7c
Punta Manara: 50 km from La Spezia, 60 routes from 5a to 7b+
Moneglia: 45 km from La Spezia, 20 routes up to 7a
Aiola: 50 km from La Spezia, 30 routes from 6a to 7b

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Muzzerone e Levante Ligure Arrampicate sportive by Davide Battistella, Edizione Versante sud

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Details / crag
SECTORS AND ROUTES
BEAUTY

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BEST TIME OF YEAR

Climbing is possible all year round thanks to the Mediterranean climate. All sectors face west and are therefore sheltered from the icy northern winds. Climbing is possible in summer by making use of the shade and the fresh afternoon Mistral.

HEIGHT

40m

ROPE

70m

GRADES

4c - 8a

ROCK

Excellent limestone.

LINK

ilmuzzerone.com

NUMBER OF ROUTES

30

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