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Napoleonica

By: Dino Sturman, F. Tremolada
Country: Italy, Region: Friuli Venezia Giulia, Town: Trieste (Trieste)

Rock climbing in Trieste goes back a long way: generations of climbers have sped out to the nearby hills immediately after work to enjoy the limestone delights of Napoleonica, Val Rosandra and Costiera, and many, like Emilio Comici, have left their mark for others to enjoy and test their skill.

One of the most famous crags near Trieste is the Napoleonica; perched on a hill overlooking the city and its bay, this panorama is Italy's answer to Montecarlo.

Nearby Costiera is another small crag of considerable value: steep overhangs and fierce slabs combine above the water's edge to ensure a fantastic day out, before watching the sun go down and retreating to one of the many famous trattorie for a well-earned evening's meal.

If you are after a combination of tradition and relax, testpieces and trattorie, then come to Trieste. She won't disappoint

GETTING THERE

Trieste is situated in the extreme NE of Italy, on the border with Slovenia. Take the A4 Venice - Trieste motorway which finishes at Trieste. Continue along the dual carriageway and exit shortly afterwards following signs for "Prosecco". Turn left at the first crossroad and left again at the next junction. Turn right 40m after this following signs for "Santuario di Monte Grisa". Drive past the sanctuary (splendid views over Trieste) on your left and continue to the next crossroad. A dead-end street leads left via a fountain to the crag. Park opposite the restaurant, 200m before the fountain. Although you may have to walk a bit further, it is unlikely that your car will get broken into here.

THE CLIMBING

Highly technical edge climbing.

FOOD AND ACCOMODATION

Trieste is a bustling city with many places to eat out and lots to offer. Accommodation can be found easily. Contact the official tourist office under www.triestetourism.it, email: info@triestetourism.it - tel. +39 040 3478312

NOTES

The sectors

1. Above Napoleonica
Nice new sector with 8 routes from 6b - 7c. White slabs with small edges. Not sheltered from the Bora, perfect for spring or autumn.
Access: from the fountain take the path that leads from away from it. Turn right at the cairn (5 mins) following the grassy track to the crag.

2. Napoleonica
Napoleonica is divided up into many smaller sectors and these combined contain routes from 4a - 8b, desperate boulder problems and traverses up to 8a. This historic crag has long been the testing ground for the locals and has seen sport climbing in all its stages, from pegs and bolts to chipped and resined holds.
Good footwork and stamina are essential, but since Napoleonica has something for everyone, a visit here is obligatory.
Recommended routes: Cico ,Texi 4c, BananaRama 5c/6a, Lo Scudo 6c+, Hells Bells 7b+, Atmosfera Zero, Poker D'assi 7c, Orcobaleno 8a and Mud Club 8a.
Climbing is possible beneath the central sector if it rains slightly.

3. The towers beneath Napoleonica
Three towers beneath Napoleonica are reached via abseil. Good slab climbing in a seemingly isolated position. 20 routes from 6a - 7a+.
60/70m ropes recommended.

4. Grotta del cane or Fontana
Small cave with 13 routes 6b - 8a+. Powerful and technical routes, hard to on-sight.
Recommended routes: la Fontana 6c, Scorpions 7b, Oklaoma 7c, Martedì Grasso 8a e Skywalker 8a+.
Access: opposite the fountain a path leads from the hand rail down towards the sea (3 mins).

5. Olimpo
7 great routes characterised by edges and small pockets - the view is great, too.
Access: from the Grotta del cane continue right for another 5 minutes.

6. Luna Park
Another 7 fingery routes from 4c - 7b. Slabs and corners.
Access: as for Mani di Fatima and continue past 'Parallele' ( 5 mins), alternatively continue from Olimpo for 5 minutes.

7. Parallele
See description

8. Mani di Fatima

See description

BIBLIOGRAPHY

"Arrampicare senza frontiere. Trieste - Litorale sloveno - Istria" by Sidarta Guides, 2003

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Details / crag
SECTORS AND ROUTES
BEAUTY

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BEST TIME OF YEAR

All sectors face southwest and receive the sun from 11/12.00am onwards. The best time of year is therefore spring, autumn and winter.

ROPE

60m

GRADES

4c - 8a

ROCK

Limestone

ORIENTATION

SW

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