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Pian Schiavaneis

By: PlanetMountain.com
Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige, Town: Canazei (Bolzano)

Beneath some of the Dolomites finest mountains, the massive Sella and the imposing Pordoi, lies Pian Schiavaneis, a seemingly insignificant boulder compared to its mighty neighbours. Yet Pian Schiavaneis is anything but insignificant. It has evolved into the Dolomites' crucible of modern sports climbing, a playground for all and testing ground for the best.

Thankfully a host of easier routes have recently been created, adding to Pian Schiavaneis' ever increasing popularity.

If you are after an alternative to the Dolomites' classics or, why not, a picnic next to some hungry marmots, be sure to stop off here.

GETTING THERE

From Val Gardena drive to Passo Sella and continue down to the Pian Schiavaneis and Monti Pallidi refuges. Leave the car in the car park. From Val di Fassa drive out of Canazei towards Passo Pordoi, turn left for Passo Sella and continue to the refuges. Walk up the road to the barrier and large boulder on the right. Follow the path and cross the river to reach the grassy slope and crag in 10 mins.

THE CLIMBING

Its friable overhanging limestone has been chipped, glued and drilled to sculpt routes of all grades, where power and stamina are essential and never enough.

FOOD AND ACCOMODATION

There are plenty of hotels, B&B's, camping grounds, supermarkets and nightlife in the Val di Fassa. Nearby Val Gardena, on the other side of Passo Sella, is also a great place to stay.

NOTES

Rifugio Pian Schiavaneis 0462 - 601338 Rifugio Monti Pallidi 0462 - 601337 Apt Canazei 0462 - 301145 Apt Val Gardena 0471-796328-793046-795122 Camping Canazei 0462 - 601660 Camping Campitello 0462 - 750502 Weather forecast Trentino www.provincia.tn.it/meteo

BIBLIOGRAPHY

"Val di Fassa climbing" by Renato Bernard.

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Details / crag
SECTORS AND ROUTES
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

BEST TIME OF YEAR

Pian Schiavaneis faces SSE and is situated at 2000m. Climbing is possible all year round, but summer afternoons are best. It is possible to climb if it rains but the crag seeps after extended periods of rain.

HEIGHT

35 m

ROPE

70m

GRADES

5b - 8b/c

ROCK

White limestone

ORIENTATION

S-SE

NUMBER OF ROUTES

62

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