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Capo Palinuro - Spiaggia Della Molpa

By: Oreste Bottiglieri
Country: Italy, Region: Campania, Town: Palinuro (Salerno)

The Cilento and Vallo di Diano park, located south of Salerno in the southern corner of Italy's Campania region, has a huge, untapped potential for rock climbing and other outdoor activities. The Molpa beach is currently the most impressive cliff to have been bolted in this area.

In the 1980s Andrea Savonitto, Alessandro Gogna and Giuseppe Miotti established some trad climbs close to Palinuro's natural arch (on the far righthand side of the cliff), on Punta di Cala Fetente and Punta Spartivento. A few years later Beppe Dallona and friends bolted a handful of climbs with some homemade hangers on the lefthand side of the Molpa cliff, close to the beach.

More recently Biagio Orovecchia, Amedeo Polito, Enrico Positano and I, bolted 40+ sport climbs above the beach thanks to the support of the associations Eso Es Palinuro, Climbing House and the Ragni di Lecco. Furthermore, the original routes were rebolted.

Fortunately we did not notice any corrosion on either the bolts or stainless steel 304 belays we'd placed circa 8 years ago, but they were all backed up or rebolted nevertheless. All route bolted prior to 2005 were completely rebolted with stainless steel 304 and 316.

The routes are located in a marine environment and for safety reasons these are checked regularly, but this obviously involves considerable time and effort, both in terms of time and money. This would not be possible without the fundamental support of the Palinuro hotels and numerous technical sponsors, in particular: Petzl, E9, Ferrino, Versante Sud, Berner, Salewa, Climbing Technology, Duegisport, Ukupacha.

GETTING THERE

North: take the A3 Salerno-Reggio Calabria motorway, exit at Battipaglia and head left towards Paestum, Agropoli, Vallo della Lucania, etc.. Continue on until the new exit of Poderia. Exit for Poderia, at the first crossroad, turn left and follow the signs for Palinuro by taking the the SS Mingardina. At the end, turn right onto the main road 562 that joins Marina di Camerota with Palinuro. Drive past the petrol station and after a couple of km turn left by a small bend and roundabout (opposite the restaurant "Da Lino") and then immediately turn right (sign "Ruderi Castello di Molpa "). Drive upwards slightly along the main dirt track (left) which leads to a gate. Park in the small layby next to this. From the parking lot, walk past the gate and continue along the dirt road all the way to its end. Continue along the path that follows the river to the sea and after fifty metres this ascends left for a dozen or so metres, behind the Molpa Castle ruins and over the ridge that separates the two beaches. Once on the beach quickly reach the base of the cliff.

FOOD AND ACCOMODATION

ARCO NATURALE CLUB
Via Arco Naturale, 1
84051 Palinuro (SA)
www.arconaturaleclub.it

VILLAGGIO DEGLI ULIVI
Corso Carlo Pisacane 171
84051 Palinuro
www.villaggiodegliolivi.it

Affittacamere AL CASALICCHIO
Via Cuomo, 14
Foria di Centola (SA)
www.alcasalicchio.it

VALERIA BORTONE Tel + 39 347 1835193

To eat:
Agriturismo Isca delle donne Via Isca delle donne - Palinuro tel 0974 931826
Pizzeria da Lino Via Piana, 2 - Palinuro tel 347 1835193
Ristorante Core a Core Via Piano Faracchio – Palinuro tel 0974 931691

BIBLIOGRAPHY

All detailed info about climbing in the Cilento and Campania region can be found in the guidebook Malopasso by O.Bottiglieri (Versante Sud). For updates contact the author directly at oreste.bottiglieri@gmail.com

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Details / crag
SECTORS AND ROUTES
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

BEST TIME OF YEAR

The crag receives the sun almost all day long; in the summer months climb in the morning until 12:00 and after 17:00. Winter is the ideal time of year, except when the sea is rough.

ROPE

70m for most routes, 80m where marked

ROCK

Limestone

ORIENTATION

SSW

NUMBER OF ROUTES

44

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