Located at circa 1200m above sea level, the Pian Bernardo rock face appears obviously and mysteriously above the village of Trappa for those passing through the Tanaro Valley from Piedmont towards Liguria. This beautiful cliff first attracted the attention of a group of locals from Ceva in the 1980's who bolted the first routes but it was soon forgotten due to its inconvenient access, the rarity of footholds and the fear instilled by the lines just looking at them.
Fifteen years later Matteo Pino, Massimo Rocca and Severino Scassa took matters in hand bolting new routes that have made this a cliff where hard routes abound. The wilderness, the wide open view and the colours of the rock make it a fascinating place where the climbing never leaves you unmoved.
Take the motorway A6 Turin/ Savona, exit at Ceva and head into the Tanaro Valley, continue past Garessio and turn right to reach the village Trappa, where you follows the signs for Pian Bernardo. This is reached by driving up a dirt road for about 3km. (You’ll need a car with a decent clearance and no sport rims, but it doesn’t need to be 4x4). Leave your car in the woods or near the last houses. It's prohibited to park or camp in the field with the big chestnut tree. From that field follow the cow path towards the cliff, after crossing the meadows the path enters the forest once again. Reach a cairn to the left, enter the woods and follow the track upwards. To reach to the lower sector take the less steep path. To reach to the upper sector turn right into the woods and continue up a steeper path with fixed ropes. You’ll arrive at the base of the wall, turn right at this point and soon see where to access the upper sector.
The upper sector has the best view and tends to offer vertical, tenacious climbing whereas the lower sector has more tufas, varied steepness and some routes with larger handholds. The climbing is physical and technical sport climbing with routes ranging from 12 to 30 meters in length.
The guidebook is available for sale at nearby Ormea at Bar Lanfranco Viale Cagna 52 (SS28) where they warmly welcome climbers with homemade pastries, coffee, drinks and sandwiches and also t Villa Tanaro Vacation Rentals who you can contact for information on weather and current conditions: firstname.lastname@example.org (+39 331 598 5934) www.villatanaro.com
Other Climbing and Activities:
There are numerous other climbing areas in the valley that offer a variety of styles, different levels of difficulty and easier approaches. Climbing all year round. Val Tanaro is also well known for its amazing hikes, mountain biking, mushroom gathering and fishing.
Andonno e Cuneese Falesie e vie moderne, Versante Sud (Severino Scassa, 2009).
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