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Chinesische Mauer

By: Nicholas Hobley
Country: Austria, Region: Tyrol, Town: Leutasch

Located on the border between Austria and Germany, the Chinesiche Mauer is one of best and biggest climbing areas in the Tyrol. The massive wall forms part of the Öfelekopfes in the Wetterstein mountain range and suddenly springs impressively into view from the beautiful and lush U-shaped valley as you drive north. Despite its ease of access the first routes were established surprisingly late, namely at the end of the 80's. Tyrol activist Reinhold Scherer spearheaded further development in the summers between 1992 - 1994 and left his mark with the 8b testpiece Future Shock. Much Mair upped the ante a decade later and while in 2006 Jorg Verhoeven established the crag's hardest, The Great Gig in the Sky 8c/8c+, Alexandra and Matthias Robl concentrated their efforts on developing the somewhat easier sector Hong Kong circa 15 minutes left of the main cliff. The climbing at Tyrol's Chinese Wall is extremely varied, sporting crimps, pockets, long stamina routes, short cruxy testpieces... Technique though is the name of the game at this Austrian crag which is well worth a visit.

GETTING THERE

The Chinesiche Mauer is located circa 45 km northwest of Innsbruck. From Innsbruck head NW along the A12, then exit for Seefeld. At Seefeld continue towards Leutasch but at the fork at Weidach bear north for Puitbach and park on the right, opposite Landhaus Puitbach. Walk past Landhaus Puitbach and a few other houses, then enter the forest and bear left and walk up to the crag. Allow circa 20 minutes for the walk-in.

THE CLIMBING

Extremely varied but always technical climbing up crimps, pockets, long stamina routes, short cruxy testpieces...

FOOD AND ACCOMODATION

Landhaus Puitback immediately beneath the crag, camping and appartments at Leutasch.

NOTES

- Leutasch Camping
The crag is not suitable for children and in winter exposed to avalanches. Check weather bulletins with care.

BIBLIOGRAPHY


Kletterführer Tirol - Michael Meisl

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Details / crag
SECTORS AND ROUTES
BEAUTY

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BEST TIME OF YEAR

Spring, summer, autumn

HEIGHT

150m

ROPE

70m

GRADES

5c - 8c/8c+

ROCK

Limestone

ORIENTATION

South

LINK

routebook.com

NUMBER OF ROUTES

163

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Recent Comments
  • Tovaric
    Via stupenda, gradi stretti e numerosi passaggi obbligatori, ...
    2013-12-16 / MICHELE LUCCHINI
  • Don Quixote
    Che dire di questa stupenda via......quando l'ho ripetuta er ...
    2013-12-01 / moreno rossini
  • Re Artù
    semplicemente fantastica,da divertirsi andate a farla. solo ...
    2013-11-24 / moreno rossini
  • La Salvana
    bella via di media difficoltá con in realtá pochi spit ma ...
    2013-09-28 / Armin Craffonara