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The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura
01.10.2014 by Elio Bonfanti in Alpinism

The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura

On 16/09/2014, the Mayor of Courmayeur prohibited access to the path that leads to Rifugio Boccalatte and also the areas below the Whymper serac on the Grandes Jorasses. Excessive zeal on behalf of the town council, or was the serac really in danger of collapsing? Between 20 and 22 September, and between 28 and 29 September, two collapses confirmed the decision to close off the paths, taken in response to information gathered by Fondazione Montagna Sicura. The interview by Elio Bonfanti with Michèle Curtaz of the Safe Mountain Foundation.

Andreas Fransson and JP Auclair killed by avalanche in Patagonia

Andreas Fransson and JP Auclair killed by avalanche in Patagonia

On 29/09/2014 Swedish skier Andreas Fransson and Canadian skier JP Auclair were killed by an avalanche on Monte San Lorenzo in Patagonia, on the border between Chile and Argentina. Both were considered two of the world's premier skiers.

Greenland 2014 and Baffin island: climbing at Gibbs Fjord by Favresse, Ditto and Villanueva
01.10.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Greenland 2014 and Baffin island: climbing at Gibbs Fjord by Favresse, Ditto and Villanueva

The final report by Nicolas Favresse about the Greenland 2014 expedition, carried out together with Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto and Sean Villanueva. This final update includes the exploration at Gibbs Fjord, Baffin Island

Philipp Angelo solos the Grandes Jorasses Polish route
30.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Philipp Angelo solos the Grandes Jorasses Polish route

The short report by South Tyrolean alpinist Philipp Angelo who on 15 September2014 carried out what is likely to be the second solo ascent of the Polish route up the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc).

Giorgia Tesio seen through the eyes of Cristian Core
30.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Giorgia Tesio seen through the eyes of Cristian Core

The video, by Cristian Core, about young Italian climber Giorgia Tesio.

New route by Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz up Sas Ciampac in the Dolomites
30.09.2014 by Franco Mucchietto in Alpinism

New route by Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz up Sas Ciampac in the Dolomites

In October 2013 the two mountain guides Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz made the first ascent of Rien ne va plus (435m, 7b+ max, 7a obligatory), a new climb up the South Face of Sas Ciampac, Puez group, Dolomites.

Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein: the Rocky Mountain National Park video
29.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein: the Rocky Mountain National Park video

The video of Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein bouldering at Chaos Canyon, Rocky Mountains National Park, Colorado, USA.

Gasherbrum V, first ascent by the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong
29.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Gasherbrum V, first ascent by the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong

On 25/07/2014 the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong completed the first ascent of Gasherbrum V (7147m) in Pakistan, climbing alpine style via a new route up the South Face. The report by expedition leader Chi-young Ahn.

 Curiosity, with Rory Bosio, Timothy Olson and Hal Koerner
28.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Curiosity, with Rory Bosio, Timothy Olson and Hal Koerner

The video Curiosity by The North Face featuring the athletes Rory Bosio, Timothy Olson and Hal Koerner and their quest to run the Ultra-Trail du Mont Blanc 2014.

Alex Luger and his route Psychogramm at Bürser Platte
27.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Alex Luger and his route Psychogramm at Bürser Platte

The video of Alex Luger climbing Psychogramm, the trad route he freed on 13/02/2014 at Bürser Platte in Austria.

Pinne gialle, new climb by Manolo at Tognazza
26.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Pinne gialle, new climb by Manolo at Tognazza

On 23/09/2014 Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla made the first free ascent of Pinne gialle, a difficult new 4-pitch climb up the side of the large central corner at Tognazza (Passo Rolle, Dolomites, Italy).

Avalanche on Shisha Pangma claims lives of Andrea Zambaldi and Sebastian Haag
26.09.2014 by Benedikt Böhm in Alpinism

Avalanche on Shisha Pangma claims lives of Andrea Zambaldi and Sebastian Haag

On 24/09/2014 an avalanche on Shisha Pangma (8027m), Tibet, claimed the lives of Italian alpinist Andrea Zambaldi and German alpinist Sebastian Haag. Martin Maier, the third alpinist caught by the avalanche that triggered shortly below the summit, managed to survive.

 Cresciano Night Session 2014
25.09.2014 by Luca di Biase in Events

Cresciano Night Session 2014

On Saturday 4 October 2014 the night bouldering meeting will take place at Cresciano, Canton Ticino, Switzerland. A brief introduction by event organiser Luca di Biase.

The Music of Hope, new Kristallwand climb by Hansjörg Auer and Gerri Fiegl
25.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

The Music of Hope, new Kristallwand climb by Hansjörg Auer and Gerri Fiegl

On 9/09/2014 Hansjörg Auer and Gerri Fiegl made the first ascent of The Music of Hope (7a, A1, 500m), a new route up the Kristallwand, Kirchkogel, Ötztal Alps, Austria.

Zanzara e Labbradoro, the Roberto Bassi film première at Arco
25.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Events

Zanzara e Labbradoro, the Roberto Bassi film première at Arco

On Saturday 27 September 2014, at 20:30 the Casino in Arco (Tn) will host the film première Zanzara e Labbradoro - Storie, mani e silenzi di Roberto Bassi (Stories, hands and silence by Roberto Bassi), written and directed by Lia G. Beltrami and produced by Aurora Vision.

Neil Mawson makes first ascent of Choronzon E10 7a in Wales
24.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Neil Mawson makes first ascent of Choronzon E10 7a in Wales

On 21 September 2014 Neil Mawson made the first ascent of Choronzon at Pembroke in Wales. Graded E10 7a, this checks in as one of the hardest trad routes in the UK.

Petzl RocTrip 2014 - Romania
24.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Petzl RocTrip 2014 - Romania

The first video of the Petzl RocTrip 2014 and stage #1 in Romania.

Volcan Aguilera, first ascent in Patagonia by the Uncharted expedition
23.09.2014 by Camilo Rada in Alpinism

Volcan Aguilera, first ascent in Patagonia by the Uncharted expedition

The Uncharted expedition comprised of Camilo Rada, Natalia Martinez, Ines Dusaillant, Viviana Callahan and Evan Miles has made the first ascent of Volcan Aguilera (2480m) on the South Patagonian Icefield. Furthermore, during the return across the Hielos Continentales the team ascended four other previously unclimbed peaks. The report by Camilo Rada.

Alexander Megos and the art of dynoing
22.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Alexander Megos and the art of dynoing

The video of Alexander Megos dynoing up two large boulder problems at Rocklands, South Africa

Project Fear, important new variation on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by Dave MacLeod
22.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Project Fear, important new variation on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by Dave MacLeod

On the North Face of Cima Ovest, Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Dolomites) Dave MacLeod from Scotland has climbed Project Fear, a difficult new 130m variation that leads to the crux pitch of Pan Aroma and breaches difficulties up to 8c.

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