CRESTS OF THE GROSSGLOCKNER
Climbing on Austria's highest mountain
In addition to the normal way (II° on rock and 40° on ice) the Grossglockner offers three very interesting crests. The rock quality is very good for Central Alps, the difficulty of climbing is moderate, so an advanture will be guaranteed!
THE CREST "STUEDLGRAT"
For sure the most famous and also most beautiful crest of whole Austria.
We start from the hut Stuedl and arrive after 1,5 hour of walking on glacier at the beginning of the route. The first 200-300 metres are not very difficult (II°), but ascending the crest the climbing difficulties get higher, with sections of III° and IV°. Some passages are very exposed, but never dangerous. If you are fit and without fear of heights, the Mountain Guides of Kals will lead you to the top of Austria without any problems. The descent will be carried out on the normal way.
Price: 1 p. 360 Euro, 2 p. 240 Euro (per person)
THE "NORTHWEST" CREST
The northwest crest of the Grossglockner is the less known sister of the "Stuedlgrat". The rock is also incredible compact and offers two possibilities: the first one (variant 5b), is the easier one. We go up a snow and ice field of 45° to 50° to the "Grögerschneid", here starts the final part of the ridge with difficulties about II° and III°, with many airy passages.
The second option (variant 5a), is the more difficult one; we follow the same snow and ice slope of the first one, but continue straight on to the deepest gap (Glocknerscharte). Here starts the lower part of the Northwest Crest, which follows the knife-sharp ridgde (IV°-), till we get to the foot of the "Devil's tower". Two pitches of rock climbing with sections of IV° lead to the top of the tower. After two abseils we get to a II°-III° - ridge that leads us to the next tower "Glocknerhorn". From here on we follow the variant 5b to the top of Austria!
Prices: Variant 5a, 1 p., 440 Euro
Variant 5b, 1 p., 380 Euro, 2 p. 260 Euro (per person)
THE GLOCKNERWAND TRAVERSE
This is the longest ridge of the Grossglockner and can be compared with a crest of the Western Alps, for its beaty and total demand. We start also for this route from the Stuedl hut, but follow the glacier in direction of "Teufelskamp". We climb up easy rocks till we get to the first tower of the Glocknerwand. The the difficulties rise on and we climb around III° and IV° on all seven towers, which are all higher than 3700 m. With many abseils we get to the deep gap of the "Glocknerscharte". Then we follow the Northwest crest to the Grossglockner, ascending a total of11 summits! For this traverse is riquired a excellent fitness and also experience of high mountain climbs.
Price: 1 p., 560 Euro