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ice belays climbing
Semi-mobile ice screw belay
Given its functionality, safety and speed of construction, the semi-mobile ice screw belay is definitely the reference belay for ice climbs.
 Click to enlarge
ice belays climbing   ice belays climbing
1- The ice screws should be positioned almost vertically one above the other, and no closer than 30cm, so as to create an acute angle. Place screw gate carabiners into the ice screw eyelets and connect these with a sling, which must have two overhand knots tied close to the V-point of the belay.
2- Twist the upper section of the sling and place a screwgate carabiner into this loop. Use this carabiner for your belay.

An acute angled belay distributes the weight ideally onto both anchors, as shown in the drawing above.
ice belays climbing ice belays climbing
3, 4 - Photos 3-4-5 show how the weight is distributed with wider angles.
soste su ghiaccio
5- Belays with angles wider than 90 degrees are definitely not recommended.

Introduction
Semi-mobile ice screw belay
Threaded belay (Abalakoff)
Gear required:
 2 ice screws
 3 screwgate carabiner
 1 sling
Suggestions:
 To optimise the amount of gear necessary and to speed up the time needed to construct the belay prepare two slings with overhand knots and screwgate carabiners.
 Clip carabiners directly into the ice screw and slings. Do not use extenders.
 The two overhand knots stop the belay from shock loading unnecessarily should one of the two ice screw pull out.
ice belays climbing
Climbing on the Monviso
Photo Roberto Rossi
Notes:
 The information published here is not complete. Please refer to the Mountain Guides' technical manual.
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