||USEFUL ADVICE FOR THE ABSEIL
One climber abseils using the belay plate, while the second climber uses the self-arresting belay plate. No additional gear is necessary.
- pay particular attention to the nature of all in-situ gear used on the abseils. Replace any untrustworthy gear;
- always use a friction knot (prussic or other autoblock) beneath the guide hand for added security;
- do not let go of the ropes upon reaching the next stance. If necessary, tie them off;
- use a daisy chain to correctly adjust the distance of the abseil device and friction knot. (photo 4). This type of sling is extremely useful for abseiling: the various loops enable the abseil device to be positioned correctly away from the harness while keeping the friction knot in close.
D: daisy chain
B: belay plate used for the abseil
F: friction knot