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- Introduction
- Connected in series
- Connected in parallel
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TWIN BOLT STANCE NOT CONNECTED
The two bolts that make up a belay can be connected in series or in parallel, depending on whether the climbers alternate leads or not. To simplify matters, we have examined a situation in which two climbers use a single rope.

CONNECTION IN PARALLEL
The bolts are connected by a sling or a thread. This method works best when the climbers do not share alternate leads.
This method is often used on trad routes as the anchors can be loaded evenly.


When reaching the stance, the leader should:

    1) clip a quickdraw into the higher of the two bolts (B) and tie off using a clove hitch, as depicted in photo 5. The leader can now set up the belay in safety;

    2) clip a single carabiner into the lower bolt (C) and clip a sling into it and the upper carabiner (B), as depicted in photo 6;

    3) position a screwgate carabiner (A) in the center of the belay. This is done by twisting one part of the sling and clipping the carabiner into the loop and sling. This loop, depicted in photos 6 & 7, ensures that the anchors are weighted evenly and that, should one of them break, the carabiner remains clipped to the sling.
    Now tie off on the screwgate using a clove hitch and undo the first knot as this has become superfluous.

    4) clip the self-arresting belay plate into the screwgate carabiner (A) to then bring up the second. The self-arresting belay plate carabiner should be positioned on the inside of the screwgate and knot, i.e. away from the gate (see photo 3).


When reaching the stance, the second should:

    1) make safe using a screwgate carabiner placed in exactly the same position as the carabiner used by the leader (A);

    2) hand over all gear and prepare to belay from the harness

    3) the quickdraw (B) must be clipped before the leader unties from the screwgate belay carabiner.


CONNECTION IN PARALLEL
For

This system enables the climbers to choose who sets off on the next pitch.

It is simple and easy to set up, and frequently used on trad routes since it distributes the load evenly between the anchors.


Against

Attention is required when setting up this type of belay:
- the angle formed by the sling must be acute! (photo 7)

It is of utmost importance that the screwgate carabiner (A) is positioned correctly in the sling. A loop must be made (photo 6) with one part of the sling into which the carabiner is clipped.

We recommend a sewn sling with a high breaking strength. Check it shows no sign of wear and is in excellent condition.
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