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TWIN BOLT STANCE NOT CONNECTED
The two bolts that make up a belay can be connected in series or in parallel, depending on whether the climbers alternate leads or not. To simplify matters, we have examined a situation in which two climbers use a single rope.
CONNECTION IN PARALLEL
The bolts are connected by a sling or a thread. This method works best when the climbers do not share alternate leads.
This method is often used on trad routes as the anchors can be loaded evenly.
When reaching the stance, the leader should:
1) clip a quickdraw into the higher of the two bolts (B) and tie off using a clove hitch, as depicted in photo 5. The leader can now set up the belay in safety;
2) clip a single carabiner into the lower bolt (C) and clip a sling into it and the upper carabiner (B), as depicted in photo 6;
3) position a screwgate carabiner (A) in the center of the belay. This is done by twisting one part of the sling and clipping the carabiner into the loop and sling. This loop, depicted in photos 6 & 7, ensures that the anchors are weighted evenly and that, should one of them break, the carabiner remains clipped to the sling.
Now tie off on the screwgate using a clove hitch and undo the first knot as this has become superfluous.
4) clip the self-arresting belay plate into the screwgate carabiner (A) to then bring up the second. The self-arresting belay plate carabiner should be positioned on the inside of the screwgate and knot, i.e. away from the gate (see photo 3).
When reaching the stance, the second should:
1) make safe using a screwgate carabiner placed in exactly the same position as the carabiner used by the leader (A);
2) hand over all gear and prepare to belay from the harness
3) the quickdraw (B) must be clipped before the leader unties from the screwgate belay carabiner.
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