||TWIN BOLT STANCE NOT CONNECTED
The two bolts that make up a belay can be connected in series or in parallel, depending on whether the climbers alternate leads or not. To simplify matters, we have examined a situation in which two climbers use a single rope.
CONNECTED IN SERIES
The bolts are connected by tying off the climbers rope. This is a simple and quick method suitable for well-equipped multi-pitch sports routes when the climbers share alternate leads.
When reaching the stance, the leader should:
1) clip a screwgate carabiner into the lower bolt (A) and tie off using a clove hitch (photo 1);
2) clip a quickdraw (B) into the second bolt (this must be above the first and ideally it is placed in the direction of the next pitch). Tie a second clove hitch into the carabiner (B) clipped to this second bolt (photo 2). Ensure that the carabiner is rotated 180° and that its gate faces in towards the stance. In this way the knot cannot interfere with the quickdraw;
3) clip the carabiner for the self-arresting belay plate into the screwgate carabiner (A) used on the lower bolt (photo 3). The self-arresting belay plate carabiner should be positioned on the inside of the screwgate (A) and knot, i.e. away from its gate.
The leader is now connected to the two bolts in series without any additional gear. The next piece of pro (quickdraw B) is already in place, ready to be used by the next leader.
The leader should now use the self-arresting belay plate to bring up the second.
When reaching the stance and before setting off on the next pitch, the second should:
1) remain belayed on the self-arresting belay plate;
2) collect all unused gear (quickdraws, nuts, etc.);
3) give the belay plate (Sticht, ATC, Tuber, etc.) to the leader (photo 4);
4) once the leader has attached the belay plate to the harness and is ready to belay, the second must clip the live rope into the quickdraw (B);
5) remove the self-arresting belay plate from the screwgate carabiner, as this will be needed to belay at the next stance;
6) at this point the second is ready to set off up the next pitch.
It is better to belay from the harness and not from a fixed anchor (as was often done in the past), since giving and taking in rope is easier and more precise. It is however of utmost importance that the quickdraw (B) is clipped before the leader starts off on the next pitch. This reduces the fall factor and ensures that, should the leader fall before clipping the next bolt, the fall will not be held directly by the belayer on his/her harness.