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Distensione

First ascent: Alessio Roverato and Angela Carraro. First ascent winter 2016/2017
By: Alessio Roverato
Area: Valsugana, Group: Val Gadena, Peak: Monte Spitz, Height: 1093m, Country: Italy, Region: Veneto

Pleasant climb that searches for the line of least resistance up the most repulsive section of the west pillar of Monte Spitz.

GETTING THERE

ACCESS 1: from Valsuguna drive into Val Gadena and park at the start of the valley, just before the closed road sign. Walk up the forest road for a few hundred meters, then take the path CAI #785 path on the right and follow this to the base of the pillar. At this point, turn left following a track that coasts the face to reach the base of the route (1.00 hour).

ACCESS 2: reach the village Stoner and from here continue along the road that finishes at the top of Mont Spitz. Park your car at the lay-by at the summit and walk down the CAI path that leads down into Valsugana until you reach the base of the West Pillar. Now skirt the face until you reach the base of the route (0.30 hour)

ACCESS

From Valsuguna drive into Val Gadena and park at the start of the valley, just before the closed road sign.

ROUTE

P1: 20m, 6b
P2: 30m, 7a+
P3: 15m, 6a
P4: 30m, 7a+
P5: 25m, 6a
P6: 20m, 6a
P7: 20m, 6a
P8: 20m, IV

DESCENT

Option 1: From the last belay traverse left for a few meters, scramble diagonally right up the grassy ramp that leads to the ridge and from here continue up to the top of the West Pillar (grade II scramble). At this point continue rightwards along CAI path #800 to the fork with the CAI path #785. At this point, if you parked the car at the entrance to Val Gadena, follow the #785 downhill (1.00 hour), otherwise follow #800 to the top of Monte Spitz (0.30 minutes).

Option 2: Abseil down the route

GEAR

10 quickdraws and 2 x 60m half ropes

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COMMENTS for the route "Distensione"

14-09-2017, Michele Lucchini
Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente suggestivo, adatta all'inverno. Chiodatura lunga ma intelligente. Solo nel primo tiro risulta "psycho", anche perchè è l'unico in cui la roccia lascia un pò a desiderare, ma si ripulirà con le ripetizioni. Gradi corretti, arrampicata prevalentemente di placca con un boulder secco nel terzo tiro. Noi abbiamo optato per l'avvicinamento dall'alto, molto comodo. Seppur impegnativa per l'obbligatorio elevato, la via permette una visita relativamente soft ad un settore severo ed affascinante della Valsugana. Merita sicuramente di diventare una classica della zona!
Details / Icefall
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

7a+

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6c+

FACE

West

LENGTH

180m

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