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Papillon

First ascent: Alex Busca, Massimo Farina, Ezio Marlier 25/02/2003: 1st repeat: Marco Farina, Remy Maquignaz, Thomas Scalise Meynet 1/02/2011
By: Thomas Scalise Meynet
Area: Central Alps, Group: Brissogne, Country: Italy, Region: Valle d'Aosta

Nice route, far from the usual ice climbing destinations...

GETTING THERE

From Pollein continue towards Brissogne via the main road. Turn off right for Ayettes, continue along the road and park at the hairpin bend  (45.723484 N,7.380838 E) which provides an obvious and easy access to the gully shortly before Ayettes.

ACCESS

From the car enter the canyon and reach the first ice steep section of ice (Gully Easy). If this isn't in condition continue left and ascend the easy ramp which leads to the upper gully. Continue upwards, exit the gully and reach the wide cone which leads to the second gully (400m height gain, 1 hour).

ROUTE

P1: Short steep sections in narrow gully. A lack of ice complicates the ascent. 60 mt, belay on natural pro.
P2: Easy gully which leads to an obvious, comfortable ledge. 50m, boulder belay.
P3: Climb the rock bastion, past one M6 section up a crack which leads to a short vertical section rightwards to reach a ledge. Belay here, 30m, natural pro.
P4: From the belay traverse left, bast a grade V rock section, to climb the obvious gully for 15m. From here make the obvious traverse right along slabs to reach the ice. 30m, tree belay
P5: 30m icefall which leads to the gully above. Ice belay.
P6: Grade 4 drip, 50m. Ice belay.

DESCENT

Abseil down the route. The first two abseils are off Abalakov threads, the third off a tree, the fourth off pegs (the only gear left in-situ).

GEAR

Full ice and mixed climbing rack. Two 60m ropes, camming devices from Camalot 0.5 - 3,  2-3 blade pegs, 6 ice screws.

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IV, 4, M6, 5°

LENGTH

250m

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