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Solo per i tuoi occhi

First ascent: Probable first ascent: Giuseppe Ballico & Marco Milanese, 23/01/2011
By: Giuseppe Ballico
Area: Dolomites, Group: Pelmo, Peak: Monte Pelmo, Height: 2000m, Country: Italy, Region: Veneto

The marvellous icefall which falls directly down from the so-called Pelmo "throne" is impossible to ignore when driving up from Zoppè di Cadore or walking towards Rifugio Venezia A. De Luca (1946m). The icefall requires perfect temperatures due to its orientation (it receives the sun from the early hours of the morning), the long walk-in (albeit not difficult), the pedestal and the snow conditions. Furthermore, the conditions must be judged carefully in loco, since it cannot be seen from Zoppè di Cadore and this means that a recchie is necessary to check beforehand. This is therefore a real "icefall in an alpine environment" where the avalanche risk after snowfall is extremely high. This is aggravated by the fact that the top of the climb is directly in the path of the Pelmo "throne". Future ascents must carefully asses the quantity of ice and above all the solidity of the icefall.

GETTING THERE

From Longarone (Bl), follow signs for Val Zoldana and drive to the small village Zoppè di Cadore (Bl) 1460m.

ROUTE

P1. from the pedestal reach the ice gully and climb this past various vertical sections. 40 m 55°65°. Ice belay;
P2. Follow the gully past steep sections to reach the large ledge.40 m 60°, one section 80° Ice belay
P3. Climb easily to the ledge. 50 m Ice belay;
P4. Climb the overhanging wall. Judge the thickness of the ice carefully and climb the difficult, overhanging drip. 60 m, 85° 90° 95°;
P5. Climb up the easy ledge. 25m;
P6. Climb the wall, with various vertical sections, where the ice allows you to. 60 m 85°90° e M, Ice belay;
P7. Climb past the short steep section to reach easier ground. A short slope leads to the final drip. Alternatively, if this is not in condition, climb the nice gully to the right. 50 m 85° 90° SG to the left;

DESCENT

Icefall: 4 Abalakov abseils

GEAR

Full ice climbing rack

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V, WI 5+ XRM

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300m

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