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La Spada nella Roccia

First ascent: Maurizio Gallo
By: Alpine Ice Tour
Area: Dolomites, Group: Sottoguda, Peak: Marmolada, Height: 1300m, Country: Italy, Region: Veneto

La Spada nella Roccia is a stupendous drip which forms from a cave. It was first climbed by Maurizio Gallo in the 1980's and represented an important step forward for piolet traction in the Western Alps.

Sottoguda represents an obligatory ice climbing venue in North-East Italy for many ice climbers. Its relative vicinity to larger cities, ease of access, the in-situ protection and beauty of the routes render the canyon one of the most popular areas in this part of northern Italy.

GETTING THERE

Serrai di Sottoguda is reached from Belluno or from Feltre by driving up Val Cordevole past Agordo, Alleghe and Caprile. From here continue upwards towards the Marmolada and Fedaia Pass. Immediately after Bosco Verde turn off right for Serrai di Sottoguda.

ACCESS

Reach Serrai, then continue on foot to reach the first icefalls in just a couple of minutes. Continue along the road until the bridge is clearly visible. Spada springs into view on the left.

DESCENT

Abseil.

GEAR

Normal ice climbing gear.

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