Highly rewarding climb in a deep drip, isolated and solitary. The final pitch can be seen from the road, just before Passo d'Eira looking north (coming from Bormio).
From Milan drive to Lecco and then Colico along the SS 36, then continue along the SS 38 to Bormio. From here take the SS 301 towards Livigno and the Foscagno Pass 2291 m.The Forcola pass which connects Valle di Livigno with Valle di Poschiavo is open from May to November only.
From the car park at the start of Val Viera cross the lake and follow the road towards Val Alpisella; immediately before the first wooden bridge continue left to reach the first large icefall situated on the left (1.30/2 hours). beware: Luna Rossa is reached by crossing the frozen lake. Carefully check the thickness of the ice, use skis, proceed roped together and take great care. If conditions are not absolutely perfect, coast the lake on the right, but access times become biblical.
The ascent climbs a long gully that alternates steep ice falls with easier angled slopes. The first two pitches are angled 70°/85 and reach circa 80m in height, while the third pitch is 50m long and angled between 70°/90°. Climb up a series of smaller steps (these can be climbed unroped) and continue walking to reach a beautiful final icefall. This 50m pitch is comprised of a 8/9m free-standing drip, followed by a slightly less steep section, to finish up a second, 10/12m drip.
One abseil; avoid the entire section from the gully to the top of the first 3 pitches by descending left, thereby reaching the start slightly higher up.
Map route 11
Guidabook: Cascate. Alpi Centrali, Lombardia e Svizzera by Mario Sertori.
Map: Switzerland 1:25000 f.1258 La Stretta and f.1238 Piz Quattervals; Kompass 1:50.000 sheet n. 96 Bormio Livigno
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