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Ice climbing in the Valle delle Meraviglie Ice climbing in Switzerland






1. Super Nina
25m, (II, 3+) D+
Walk-in: 0.40h
P. Gidaro, R. Squassoni and F. Basilico in 1998
P1. Series of vertical walls, not sustained
Descent: abseil from ice screw.

2. Il gatto a nove code
50m, (II, 5-) TD+
Walk-in: 0.40h
N. Berzi and G. Kravtchenko in 1998
P1. Pretty icefall with myriad of hanging drips (15m of 90°).
Descent: 50m abseil down rock from top of pitch.

3. Jet leg
50m, (II,4) TD
Walk-in: 0.40h
G. Kravtchenko and N. Berzi in 1998
P1. Hanging icefall great for learning (15m of 85°)
Descent: 50m equipped abseil down rock from top of pitch.

4. Chandelle Fella
50m, (II, 4+) TD+
Walk-in: 0.40h
N. Berzi, S. Fella, R. Del Fante and C. Bernareggi in 1998.
Pretty icefall, more sustained and technical than Jet leg. Shared belay with Jet Leg.

N.B.
There are 3 other icefalls to be climbed in this sector.





1. Ice and water
120m, (III, 4) TD
L. Biagini, B.Pomati and V. Casellato in 1998
Walk-in: 1h
Climb a series of steps and columns to wide snowy slopes above.
Descent: traverse left to tree and with a 25m abseil reach the snowy slopes that lead to the base of the drip.

2. Nikon
150m, (III, 4+) TD+
N. Berzi, B. Pomati, L. Ceron and U. Bertola (Il biella) in 1998
Walk-in: 1,15 h
P1. Climb the center of the nice stepped wall (50m, 75° ice belay).
P2. Continue straight to snowy gully above (30m, 80° belay on rock to the right).
P3. Ascend the gully to the base of the gully.
P4. Climb the pedestal to the final vertical section to belay at the top of the drip (50m, 10m of 90°).
Descent: equipped abseils(final abseil on rocks to the lft of the first step).

3. Genziana d’argento
80m, (III,4) TD
N. Berzi, B.Pomati, G. Kravtchenko and L. Ceron in 1998
Walk-in: 1 h
P1. Climb the good icicle to ice belay (50m, 8m of 90°).
P2. Climb through the middle of the wall above, with delicate exit and move right beneath a rock protruding through the snowy slope, where a belay has been established (50m, 85°).
Descent: equipped belays for abseil (the second is located on the rocks to the left of the starting wall).

N.B.
There are 3 other icefalls to be climbed in this sector.




1. Isteria
70m, (IV, 5+) ED+
N. Berzi and B. Pomati in 1998
Walk-in: 2,30 h
P1. Climb the pedestal to ice belay behind icicle (40m, 80°).
P2. Climb icicle direct past cauliflowers and stalactites to belay at rock (35m of 90°).
Descent: 50m abseil to behind the icicle, then abseil from ice screw.

2. Il fiume dell’ira
200m, (IV, 3+) TD-
N. Berzi and B. Pomati in 1998
Walk-in: 2 h
P1. Climb straight up the nice starting drip and belay on rock to the left (40m, 10 a 85°).
P2. Continue up the gully to the next step.
P3. Climb up this step to belay on rock to the left (50m, 10m of 80°).
P4. and P5. Ascend the gully to final ice section.
P6. Climb up middle of bulging ice (45m, 80°).
P7. Continue straight to the end of the difficulties (35m, 80°).
Descent: equipped abseil then descend gully on foot.

N.B.
There are 15 other difficult icefalls to be climbed in this sector.


by Nicolo' Berzi - Guide Alpine Milano
   
 1 2 3 4 5 
 
at the base of one of the icefalls in the valle delle Meraviglie
Ice climbing dreams are made of this!
At the base of Il gatto a nove code with skis
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