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Ice climbing in the Valle delle Meraviglie Ice climbing in Switzerland




Various drips form on the northern face of Guggernull, as do some at the start of the valley. A glance at the map shows that this valley has yet to be fully discovered...





1. Fuego lento
70m, (III, 4+) TD+
N. Berzi and L. Ceron in 1998
Walk-in: 0.45h
P1. Climb the short wall on the left to belay on rock, to the left of free-standing column (30m, 80°, 1 in-situ peg in belay).
P2. Continue straight up the column above. (45m, 90°, ice belay).
P3. Climb to snowy summit plateau and then descend by traversing right between the trees to reach the belay of Candelone di Fuego Lento.

Descent: 50m abseil down Candelone di Fuego Lento


2. Candelone di Fuego Lento
50m, (III, 5) ED
N Berzi and L. Ceron in 1998
Walk-in: 0.45h
P1. Move leftwards from the snowy gully to climb a left-hand airy, spectacular and athletic line. (50m, 90°).

Descent: 50m abseil from the end of the route.


3. Surye Namaskar
200m (III,4) TD
P. Gidaro, M. Maggioni and N. Berzi
Walk-in: 0.30h

P1. Climb through the first step and belay on ice on right (50m, 5m of 80°).
P2. Continue left over short walls to take the small gully on the right. Equipped belay on rock (40m, 70°).
P3. Climb the steep section directly, and obliquely beneath othe cauliflower's to belay on ice (40m, some 90° sections).
P4. Traverse right, then climb straight to belay on rock beneath the final steep section (35m, 80°).
P5. Climb the step in its center and belay o ice beneath the roof on the left (45m, 85°).
P6. Traverse right and climb to the top of the drip (25m, 80°). Belay on right beneath the rocky ledge.

Descent: four 50m abseils. The abseils are situated at belay 6,belay 4, belay 2 and the final one over the smooth slabs to the left of the drip.





About 15 icefalls that receive the sun, one of which is 300m long.


by Nicolo' Berzi - Guide Alpine Milano
   
 1 2 3 4 5 
 
cie climbing in Switzerland
Climbing the first few meters of Candelone di Fuego Lento. Below: ice climbing at its best - the final steep section of Surye Namaskar

steep ice in the Valle delle meraviglie
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