EN IT | Expo | Club | Newsletter | Forum | WEB TV | GALLERY
 ICE - ROUTES
Brunnital, ice climbing in Switzerland
by Urs Odermatt, UIAA Mountain Guide
Brunnital ice climbing in Switzerland

The Brunnital counts as one of the best ice climbing areas in the entire Alps. The incredible selection of long, demanding routes is pretty much unparalleled and can only be beaten in Switzerland by the top resort Kandersteg. Since conditions tend to be good in February and the walk-in tolerable, long queues often form at the base of the routes in the Hydrophobia sector. Those prepared to walk a further 30 minutes will almost certainly find a route with no other climbing parties on it.

ROUTE GRADE BEAUTY
Bluebalu IV 6-
Fliehende Stürme III 6-
Hydrophobia III 6
Lisslerenfall IV 5
Verschneidung III 4-


Info
The Brunnital leads off from the Schächental at Unterschächen. It is located at an altitude of 1080 – 1380m, relatively low therefore for ice climbing. Sine the valley runs North – South, one can always climb either in the shade or the sun. The valley closes off with a massive, 1300m high wall. The classic route through the Ruchen North Face is climbed regularly.

Getting there
The area can be reached easily by public transport. Take the train to Flüelen, then continue by Posttrain to Unterschächen. Reaching Brunnital by car saves not much more then 15 minutes on the walk-in. For those interested in the climbing the Ruchen North Face, get a permit to drive up to Brunnialp from the restaurant at the fork in the road.

Objective dangers
As a ground rule: the further you enter the valley, the more alpine the environment becomes. The routes at the valley head are comparable with the large faces in the Bernese Alps and are therefore just as committing. Those icefalls close to the road can be defined as relatively avalanche safe, having said that, after heavy snow fall the entire valley can become extremely dangerous. Check out the avalanche bulletin under www.slf.ch.
Warning: many starts are exposed to falling ice. During the main season in February the routes receive massive amounts of sun and can therefore become, objectively speaking, extremely dangerous. Despite the vicinity to the road, considerable alpine experience is necessary to correctly judge the conditions.

Alternatives
There are various alternatives should conditions not be 100% perfect for ice climbing. There are numerous ski mountaineering itineraries, including the superlative ascent to Gross Ruchen via the Chälen. This route offers 2000m height gain, 40° slopes and perfect views onto the valley.
There are a multitude of very beautiful alpine sports routes on the south facing walls above the Klausenpassstrasse, and even on sunny winter days these are climbable.
Those who cannot do without ice will almost certainly find something at the high lying Sulztal which runs parallel to the Brunnital, but hardly anyone undertakes the long and tiring walk-in.

DETAILS
Brunnital ice climbing in Switzerland
Location
Kanton Uri, Switzerland
Best time of year
Usually from the end of December to mid-February, depending on the freeze periods. The area is exposed to the warm Föhn wind.
Gear
Full ice climbing rack.
Beauty
*****
Height
1080m -1380m
Accommodation
Hotel Brunnital offers dormitory or rooms plus breakfast and swimming pool at an incredible price
Tel.+41 41 879 11 62 or brunnital@bluewin.ch
Bibliography
1:25.000 / Blatt 1192 Unterschächen
Topo: Urs Odermatt-Hot Ice

Brunnital ice climbing in Switzerland

infos@mountain-consulting.ch
Links
www.eisklettern.ch
ICE ZONE
dot
dot
ICE FALLS
Europe
ALPINE CLASSICS
Alps
dot
COMPETITIONS
Results and calendar
dot
dot
 Icefalls
Search archive:
Group
Peak
Route name
 SITEMAP
dot
dot
ROCK
Dolomites
Multi-pitch routes
Crags
Competitions
dot
ICE
Ice Falls
Alpine Classics
Competitions
dot
SNOW
Ski mountaineering
Freeride
Snowshoes
dot
TREKKING
Worldwide
Vie Ferrate
EXPEDITIONS
dot
SPECIAL
Interviews
Weblink
dot
LAB
Techniques
Gear
dot
MOUNTAIN INFO
Tourism
Mountain Guides
dot
EXPO
dot
NEWS
Newsletter
Info
dot
dot ITALIAN VERSION dot
dot
Copyright©Mountain Network s.r.l - P.IVA 03528410289
Send your comments and suggestions to PlanetMountain.com posta
dot [loop:$tot]
[var:'dida'+(loopcount)]
Cover:
[var:'dida'+(loopcount)] - ph. ©[var:'autore'+(loopcount)]
[/loop]
dot