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  • 22.10.2014 Miyar valley, first ascent of Lotus Tower SE Face

    Miyar valley, first ascent of Lotus Tower SE Face

    In August 2014 an expedition comprised of the alpinists Cyrill Bösch, Elias Gmünder, Arunas Kamandulis and Gediminas Simutismade the first ascent of Splitter and Storm (500m, TD 6a), a new route up the unclimbed SE Face of Lotus Tower, Miyar Valley, India. The report by Gediminas Simutis.

  • 21.10.2014  K2014-150 CAI - Zemu Exploratory Expedition

    K2014-150 CAI - Zemu Exploratory Expedition

    In spring 2014 the Italian K2014-150 CAI - Zemu Exploratory Expedition led by Alberto Peruffo explored the region to the south of Kanchenjunga.

  • 17.10.2014 Kishtwar: three Himalayan first ascents by Siegrist, Senf and Abegglen

    Kishtwar: three Himalayan first ascents by Siegrist, Senf and Abegglen

    In September 2014 Dres Abegglen, Thomas Senf and Stephan Siegrist made the first ascents of the peaks Shiepra 5885m and Kharagosa 5840m in the Kishtwar region of India's Himalaya. Furthermore, at the start of October the trio climbed a new route up Kishtwar Shivling, making what is believed to be only the mountains second ascent.

  • 17.10.2014 Clean and Honest Mountaineering: Reality or Illusion? The conference at the Brixen IMS

    Clean and Honest Mountaineering: Reality or Illusion? The conference at the Brixen IMS

    On Saturday 18 October 18 the International Mountain Summit at Brixen will hold the conference "Clean and Honest Mountaineering: Reality or Illusion?" Organised by the Master in Mountain Medicine and its director Dr. Luigi Festi, this conference will attempt to provide a definition to doping in the mountains and set guidelines that aims to raise awareness and increase safety in high altitude mountaineering.

    Miyar valley, first ascent of Lotus Tower SE Face
    22.10.2014 by Gediminas Simutis in Alpinism

    Miyar valley, first ascent of Lotus Tower SE Face

    In August 2014 an expedition comprised of the alpinists Cyrill Bösch, Elias Gmünder, Arunas Kamandulis and Gediminas Simutismade the first ascent of Splitter and Storm (500m, TD 6a), a new route up the unclimbed SE Face of Lotus Tower, Miyar Valley, India. The report by Gediminas Simutis.

     K2014-150 CAI - Zemu Exploratory Expedition
    21.10.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    K2014-150 CAI - Zemu Exploratory Expedition

    In spring 2014 the Italian K2014-150 CAI - Zemu Exploratory Expedition led by Alberto Peruffo explored the region to the south of Kanchenjunga.

    Kishtwar: three Himalayan first ascents by Siegrist, Senf and Abegglen
    17.10.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Kishtwar: three Himalayan first ascents by Siegrist, Senf and Abegglen

    In September 2014 Dres Abegglen, Thomas Senf and Stephan Siegrist made the first ascents of the peaks Shiepra 5885m and Kharagosa 5840m in the Kishtwar region of India's Himalaya. Furthermore, at the start of October the trio climbed a new route up Kishtwar Shivling, making what is believed to be only the mountains second ascent.

    Clean and Honest Mountaineering: Reality or Illusion? The conference at the Brixen IMS
    17.10.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Clean and Honest Mountaineering: Reality or Illusion? The conference at the Brixen IMS

    On Saturday 18 October 18 the International Mountain Summit at Brixen will hold the conference "Clean and Honest Mountaineering: Reality or Illusion?" Organised by the Master in Mountain Medicine and its director Dr. Luigi Festi, this conference will attempt to provide a definition to doping in the mountains and set guidelines that aims to raise awareness and increase safety in high altitude mountaineering.

    Tom Ballard, climbing in his veins
    15.10.2014 by Planetmountain in Interviews

    Tom Ballard, climbing in his veins

    Interview with talented British climber and alpinist Tom Ballard.

    GORE-TEX® Experience Tour
    14.10.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    GORE-TEX® Experience Tour

    Experience an intense and unique adventure with the GORE-TEX® Experience Tour: together with world-famous Himalayan alpinist Edurne Pasaban climb in the footsteps of Lucy Walker, the great pioneer of alpinism, to rediscover the beauty of the Alps and the meaning of taking to the mountains.

    Anna Torretta and Cecilia Buil: ice climbing on Marmolejo in Chile
    10.10.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Anna Torretta and Cecilia Buil: ice climbing on Marmolejo in Chile

    The video of Anna Torretta and Cecilia Buil and the first ascent of the ice climb La Gioconda (160m, WI 6) above the glacier Cerro El Marmolejo (6109m, Chile).

    Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
    07.10.2014 by Corrado Pesce in Alpinism

    Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias

    On 26 and 27 September 2014 Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias repeated Directe de l'Amitie on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc). A route first climbed in winter 1974 by Louis Audoubert, Michel Feuillarade, Marc Galy and Yannick Seigneur, described by Corrado Korra Pesce as "the most challenging route up the Jorasses and the line that satisfied me the most.” In this report Korra talks about his recent ascent and takes a step back in time to examine the history of this great route.

    The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura
    01.10.2014 by Elio Bonfanti in Alpinism

    The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura

    On 16/09/2014, the Mayor of Courmayeur prohibited access to the path that leads to Rifugio Boccalatte and also the areas below the Whymper serac on the Grandes Jorasses. Excessive zeal on behalf of the town council, or was the serac really in danger of collapsing? Between 20 and 22 September, and between 28 and 29 September, two collapses confirmed the decision to close off the paths, taken in response to information gathered by Fondazione Montagna Sicura. The interview by Elio Bonfanti with Michèle Curtaz of the Safe Mountain Foundation.

    Philipp Angelo solos the Grandes Jorasses Polish route
    30.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Philipp Angelo solos the Grandes Jorasses Polish route

    The short report by South Tyrolean alpinist Philipp Angelo who on 15 September2014 carried out what is likely to be the second solo ascent of the Polish route up the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc).

    Gasherbrum V, first ascent by the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong
    29.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Gasherbrum V, first ascent by the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong

    On 25/07/2014 the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong completed the first ascent of Gasherbrum V (7147m) in Pakistan, climbing alpine style via a new route up the South Face. The report by expedition leader Chi-young Ahn.

    The Music of Hope, new Kristallwand climb by Hansjörg Auer and Gerri Fiegl
    25.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    The Music of Hope, new Kristallwand climb by Hansjörg Auer and Gerri Fiegl

    On 9/09/2014 Hansjörg Auer and Gerri Fiegl made the first ascent of The Music of Hope (7a, A1, 500m), a new route up the Kristallwand, Kirchkogel, Ötztal Alps, Austria.

    Volcan Aguilera, first ascent in Patagonia by the Uncharted expedition
    23.09.2014 by Camilo Rada in Alpinism

    Volcan Aguilera, first ascent in Patagonia by the Uncharted expedition

    The Uncharted expedition comprised of Camilo Rada, Natalia Martinez, Ines Dusaillant, Viviana Callahan and Evan Miles has made the first ascent of Volcan Aguilera (2480m) on the South Patagonian Icefield. Furthermore, during the return across the Hielos Continentales the team ascended four other previously unclimbed peaks. The report by Camilo Rada.

    International Mountain Summit: a meeting and a discussion about alpinism, doping, culture and the environment
    19.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    International Mountain Summit: a meeting and a discussion about alpinism, doping, culture and the environment

    At the International Mountain Summit 2014, that will take place in Brixen, Italy, from 16 - 21 October there are two important days organised by the Master in Mountain Medicine and his director Dott. Luigi Festi. The first, on 17 October, is entitled 'A mountain of words, images, emotions, colors' while the second on 18 October is entitled 'Clean and Honest Mountaineering: Reality or Illusion?' and will host an international meeting discussing the use of doping in alpinism and mountain sports.

    Corrado Pesce and his Polish route solo up Grandes Jorasses
    09.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Corrado Pesce and his Polish route solo up Grandes Jorasses

    On Monday 8 September the Italian alpinist Corrado "Korra" Pesce made a fast solo ascent of the Polish route up Pointe Helene on the North Face of the Grande Jorasses (Mont Blanc).

    Roger Schäli and the film Loslassen, let go
    18.08.2014 by Planetmountain in Books-press

    Roger Schäli and the film Loslassen, let go

    The entire version of Loslassen, let go is now online. This film recounts the ascent of Arwa Spire (6193m) in India together with Simon Gietl, but also talks about the human relationships.

    Monte Rosa: twenty years of research by Ferrino
    15.08.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Monte Rosa: twenty years of research by Ferrino

    The Ferrino High-lab, located at an altitude of 3585m of the Valle d'Aosta side on Monte Rosa, celebrates 20 years. It is the highest laboratory in Italy. And it is up there that the company from Turin, the market leader for mountain outdoor products (and more), tests its tents and invites all outdoor enthusiasts to enjoy a unique experience: that of a real Base Camp!

    Mont Blanc, six alpinists perish on Aiguille d'Argentiere
    14.08.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Mont Blanc, six alpinists perish on Aiguille d'Argentiere

    On 13/08/2014 six alpinists were found dead on Aiguille d'Argentiere in the Mont Blanc massif.

    No Rest For the Wicked, new route in Alaska by John Frieh and Jess Roskelley
    08.08.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    No Rest For the Wicked, new route in Alaska by John Frieh and Jess Roskelley

    On 29 and 30 May 2014 American alpinists John Frieh and Jess Roskelley made the first ascent of No Rest For the Wicked (IV+ AI6 M7), a difficult new route up the West Witches Tit in SE Alaska. The report by John Frieh.

    New ice climbs in Chile by Cecilia Buil and Anna Torretta in Chile
    06.08.2014 by Anna Torretta in Alpinism

    New ice climbs in Chile by Cecilia Buil and Anna Torretta in Chile

    In mid-July Cecilia Buil from Spain and Anna Torretta from Italy made the first ascent of La Gioconda (160m, WI 6) a new ice climb on the glacier Cerro El Marmolejo (6109m, Chile) to which they then added the variation Le Bombardier (30m, WI 6-). The report by Anna Torretta.

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