Tiscali - the Nuragic village
The walk to the doline and remains of the villages of Tiscali only takes a couple of hours, but the environment is quite wild and as of today the route is not marked. This means that it is not an easy walk for those not used to walking in the Supramonte.
Tiscali is one of the most popular destinations for walkers in Sardinia but this walk is perhaps the one for which – maybe because people often don’t have a good description of the route – the Mountain Rescue most often has to look for people who have got lost.
Leave the Strada Provinciale 46 Oliena-Dorgali at km 5,8 (about 5 km from Oliena and 14 km from Dorgali – signs for “ Valle di Lanaitto”) and follow the tarmaced road which after 2,4 km brings you to the parking place of the Su Gologone spring. 100 metres earlier you take the turnoff to the right (signs for “Località Turistica Lanaitto”). You follow this road into the Lanaitto valley for a total of 8 km. You ignore small secondary turnoffs and need to pay attention at the following junctions: after 4,4 km keep left at a “Y” junction; 2,2 km later keep left and 1 km further on (still on the main unmade track) left again, then in 300 metres you arrive at a large parking place (altitude 180 m amsl).
To return to the starting point without having to retrace the same path, it’s possible to go back along a variant which crosses the crest (Curtigia di Tiscali) onto the other side. After having visited the village and having come out of the doline, you proceed NE for less than 100 metres, until you find a faint path which completes a tight hairpin bend and descends rapidly to the SE. After 20 minutes’ descent you come to a first junction where you ignore the branch to the right (in actual fact, rather hard to see – altitude 305 m amsl) to continue to descend towards the deep valley of the Doloverre di Surtana. Once you reach the valley, you ignore the path to the right and instead turn left to proceed northwards. The mule track, initially very good, gets gradually rougher and you often have to walk on the dry river bed. You can’t go wrong since there is only one path. Continue until where the high valley walls finish and the path, by now an unmade track, changes direction and turns to the left, towards the SW. Follow this track to the left for 500 m to return to the car.
Top treks of Sardinia. Hikes, multiday treks and vie ferrate to discover the island's unspoiled beauty. By Corrado Conca, Edizioni Segnavia
The village of Tiscali was probably constructed during the late Nuragic period and consists of two different groups of dwellings: one of circular huts and the other of huts with four corners. The presence of the second set of dwellings indicates that the village was also used in a later period, probably until the Late Medieval period. Its location inside the doline and the system for gathering water dripping from stalactites lead one to think that the inhabitants could remain inside for long periods to ward off would-be attackers and that the site could have represented a defence against invaders in Roman times.
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TOP TREKS OF SARDINIA
Hikes, multiday treks and vie ferrate to discover the island's unspoiled beauty
Ediz. italian, english
by Corrado Conca
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