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Transocean

First ascent: Bernd Rathmayr & Reto Ruhstaller 2007 & 2010. First free ascent: Reto Ruhstaller 26/08/2010
By: Planetmountain
Area: Swiss Alps, Group: Wenden, Peak: Pfaffenhut, Height: 2300m, Country: Switzerland

Transocean is a beautiful route up compact limestone, first ascended from the ground-up in the summers 2007 and 2010 and although equipped with bolts it needs camming devices for additional protection. Very technical slab climbing, the line was freed by Ruhstaller on 26/08/2010.

GETTING THERE

Reach Gadmen via the Sustenpassstrasse, from Obermaad take the toll road to the Wendenalp.

ACCESS

From the Wendenalp ascend on foot for 1.5 hours. The route starts between "Voie du frère" and "Patent Ochsner".

ROUTE

P1: 6c, 45m
P2: 6a+, 45m
P3: 6b+, 35m
P4: 7b, 15m
P5: 7b+, 30m
P6: 7a+, 25m
P7: 6c, 45m

DESCENT

Abseil down the route.

GEAR

2 x 50m ropes, Friends 4.5 - 2.5, slings

NOTES

Transocean was named after the drilling company responsible for the 2010 Gulf of Mexico oil spill which caused one of the biggest environmental disasters of all times

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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PERIOD

July - October

DIFFICULTY

7b+

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7a+

FACE

South

LENGTH

230m

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Transocean

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