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Baci da Honolulu + Al.Fa

First ascent: Baci da Honolulu: Mauro Roversi & Ornella Calza, 1986. Al.Fa: Aldo Leviti & Fabio Longo 1990
By: Alberto De Giuli, Mountain Guide
Area: Dolomites, Group: Sella, Peak: Piz Ciavazes, Country: Italy

Stupendous combination of two existing routes which had fallen into disuse, probably due to the state of the original pro. The first half climbs technical slabs, the second is more athletic up excellent rock. Re-equipped in summer 2009, the route is well protected but the bolts are at times run-out.

GETTING THERE

From Passo Sella continue for a few kilometers to reach a long straight section and parking spaces on the right, immediately beneath the south face. From Canazei continue part the bar/restaurant Monti Pallidi to the hairpin bend and parking spaces immediately afterwards on the left.

ACCESS

From the car park walk up the path which leads to the base of the mountain. The route is located in the middle of the face, 4m to the right of Via Roberta ("BH" written at the base). As you walk towards the face, aim for the horizontal roof 50m above the base.

ROUTE

P1: 7a, 35m
P2: 7b+, 20m
P3: 6b, 25m
P4: 7a, 30m
P5: 6a, 25m
P6: 6b, 25m
P7: 6b+, 25m
P8: 7a, 20m
P9: 7a/7a+, 30m
P10: 6c,6a+, 50m

DESCENT

Abseil down the route or walk down via the ledge Cengia dei Camosci.

GEAR

12 quickdraws one 70m rope

NOTES

Rebolted by Alberto De Giuli, Renato Bernard (G.G.A.A.) and Andrea Gabrielli in summer 2009. Thanks to Val di Fassa Climbing for having provided the gear.

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COMMENTS for the route "Baci da Honolulu + Al.Fa"

12-09-2011, Swen Harald
Very nice route. The best pitches are p1 and p4. - very technical and sustained slabs. The upper part was a little bit dirty - earth/dirt in most of the holds. The upper part of the route is also very different from the bottom part. We found the climbing on the easier pitches through the roofs quite tough for the grade. The 8th pitch has a line of bolts every meter but offers a free line by staying just right of the bolts. The roof provides the crux. The 9th pitch felt more like 7b+ to us.
Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

7b+

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6c

FACE

South

LENGTH

250m

PDF

Baci da Honolulu + Al.Fa

LINK

www.albertodegiuli.com

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