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Snake - Stawamus Chief

Canada>British Columbia>Canada>Squamish>Stawamus Chief

Millie Evans

Main article

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Snake

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

Pete Botta, Dick Willmott, 1962

Millie Evans

Orientation

North West

Length

250m

Difficulty

5.9

Period

April - September

Snake is another classic route on the south Apron. It is five pitches long the first of which is 55m so a 60m rope is a must. It is worth noting that this route can stay wet after rain for a couple of days due to seepage on the upper pitches. It follows a corner system requiring lots of laybacking, but at least this means there’s gear!

Getting there
The Chief is located on Highway 99 and is unmissable as you drive from Vancouver to Squamish. It towers over the highway just south of Squamish town centre and there are several different parking spots depending on which routes you are heading for. The Apron car park is located about just south of the town centre at the turning to Mamquam Forest Service road. This places you directly below the climbing. Access
The carpark is 500m north of the Chief campsite. Follow the path past the toilet and scramble up and left at the base of the crag heading for a forested ledge. Continue up to reach the base of the corner. Descent
Scramble up and traverse on to Broadway Ledge and then back to the main path. Gear
Full rack needed, some bolted belays. Maps/Bibliography
- Squamish Select by Marc Bourdon.
- Climbers Guide to Squamish by Kevin McLane
- Climb Squamish covers lots of extra information beyond what the guidebook provides to help the travelling climber. It covers all sorts of detailed information regarding routes, travel, accommodation, bear advice etc.