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Il volo di Pegasus

First ascent: Albert Leichtfried & Reinhard Ranner 13/05/2010
By: Planetmountain
Area: Apennines, Group: Sicilian Apennines, Peak: Monte Monaco, Country: Italy, Region: Sicily

Volo di Pegasus is a beautiful route which climbs perfect rock and is marked by the incredible rock formations and tufas. First ascended on-sight from the ground-up by visiting Austrians Albert Leichtfried & Reinhard Ranner, the route climbs difficulties up to 7a but Leichtfried warns: "with only 17 bolts on the pitches, the route turned out to be a great adventure."

GETTING THERE

From San Vito lo Capo drive to the obvious Monte Monaco. Park the car at the northern entry to Camping la Pineta.

ACCESS

Walk to the North Face and the base of the route in just 15 minutes. The route starts left of an obvious grey pillar. The route starts to the left of La Lingua Pura.

ROUTE

P1: 6a, 60m, 2 bolts
P2: 6c, 25m, 6 bolts
P3: 6a+, 50m, 1 bolts
P4: 6a, 40m, 0 bolts
P5:6a+, 35m, 2 bolts
P6: 7a, 25m, 4 bolts
P7: 6b, 25m, 2 bolts

DESCENT

Walk down the south face in 45 minutes, some grade II scramble.

GEAR

Set C3, Camos 0,4-3, slings. 17 bolts on the pitches, 11 bolts on the belays.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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PERIOD

Autumn, spring

DIFFICULTY

7a R/S 3+,II

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7a

FACE

North

LENGTH

260m

LINK ZONE

Read main article

LINK

www.albertleichtfried.at

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