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Power of Silence

First ascent: Ines Papert, Lisi Steurer 08/2009. First free ascent: Prima libera: Ines Papert 07/08/2009
By: Planetmountain
Area: Canada, Group: Cirque of the Unclimbables, Peak: Middle Huey Spire, Height: 2310m, Country: Canada, Region: Northwest Territories

Logical line along cracks and through a very obvious system of dihedrals in the left section of the wall past some enormous roofs. Established over three days at the start of August 2009, then climbed free in a day by Ines Papert.

GETTING THERE

From Blackstone fly to Glacier Lake, then continue on foot for a day to reach the Cirque of the Unclimbables and the Fairy Meadows.

ACCESS

The route starts to the right of the 1977 Middle Huey Spire route, then climbs left and crosses this after pitch three.

ROUTE

P1: 5.4, 60m
P2: 5.10b, 45m
P3: 5.10c, 45m
P4: 5.10d, 45m
P5: 5.10c, 30m
P6: 5.12c, 36m,
P7: 5.12b, 25m
P8: 5.11a, 27m
P9: 5.13a, 20m
P10: 5.11c, 40m
P11: 5.11a, 20m

DESCENT

Abseil down the line of ascent.

GEAR

Belays equipped with bolts, 4 other bolts placed along the route. All the rest climbed free with trad gear.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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PERIOD

Summer

DIFFICULTY

7c+

FACE

S

LENGTH

400m

LINK ZONE

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LINK

www.ines-papert.de

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