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L'Ange en Décomposition

First ascent: Philippe Maclé, 1982
By: Planetmountain
Area: Provence Alps and pre-Alps, Group: Verdon Gorge, Peak: Gorges du Verdon, Height: 1000m, Country: France, Region: Haute-Provence

Another masterpiece by Philippe Maclé, "Ange" is one of the routes in the gorge. The rock quality is outstanding and the climb takes an extremely exposed line up the Fenrir prow with the entire Verdon void beneath your feet. Soloed by Alain Robert, this climb is simply unmissable.

GETTING THERE

From the north: take the A6 motoway to Avignon and take the N100 for Apt, then Manosque and Riez. From here take the D56 to Moustiers, and continue along the D952 to La Palud.

From the south: from Nice take the N85 to Castellane, and continue along the D952 for La Palud. Shortly before entering the village turn left along the D23, the panoramic Route des Cretes, which leads to the Belvedere de la Carelle lookout and the routes.

ACCESS

Park the car at the Belvedere de la Carelle and follow the path right up through the shrub. The sector is marked with a plaque and cairn. To get to the route scramble down on to the ledge.

ROUTE

P1: 6c
P2: 7a
P3: 6a

GEAR

Two 60/70m ropes are indespensable. Bring 2 prussik loops for the abseils and 12 quickdraws.

NOTES

The Verdon requires perfect abseiling technique. Never forget to tie a knot in the end of the ropes, and tie into prussik loops, prior to abseiling.

MAPS/BIBLIOGRAPHY

"Escalade au Verdon" by P. Légier, F. Ristori and A. Jam

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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PERIOD

Spring and autumn. The Gorges du Verdon are situated on a plateau at almost 1000m: summer can oftern be too hot, while from October onwards it may be too cold to climb.

DIFFICULTY

7a

FACE

SE

LENGTH

100m

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