Fantastic modern climb up slabs and through overhang, demanding and varied, with some impressive pitches. Exposure guaranteed. Bolts at times run-out with difficult obligatory sections.
From Palermo reach the beach at Mondello.
From Mondello enter the Monte Gallo Reserve (5 € entrance fee for car) and continue to the lighthouse, park here. Continue on foot along the road to where it ends, then along a narrow path which coasts the cliff to the end close to some large boulders. traverse the scree slope and reach the base of the wall and ivy plants. Coast the base to the start of the route (25 minutes from the lighthouse, 45 minutes from Mondello)
- 1st 50m abseil to belay 7, clip the quickdraws as you descend
- 2nd abseil to belay 6, clip the quickdraws as you descend
- 3rd abseil, 60m, to the ledge and comfortable belay 4, clip some quickdraws
- 4th abseil to belay 3
- 5th abseil to belay 1, 60m
- 6th abseil back to the ground
All belays are equipped with stainless steel maillon rapide
Stainless steel bolts, some glue-in bolts on fragile rock. Some slings. Take 12 quickdraws, 60m ropes and slings for the threads.