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Larcher - Vigiani

First ascent: Rolando Larcher & Roberto Vigiani, 12/08/2001
By: Planetmountain
Area: Dolomites, Group: Marmolada, Peak: Marmolada d'Ombretta, Height: 3247m, Country: Italy, Region: Veneto

First ascended by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani in summer 2000 over a four-day period from the ground-up, the route climbs an incredible line up the edge of the Cristina pillar to then continue through the center of the Lindo Pillar. Unlike the other climbs on the South Face, the LarcherVigiani follows a series of steep slabs and overhanging bulges up pumpy moves on dream-like, rough pocketed limestone.

GETTING THERE

Take the motorway A22 Modena-Brennero and exit, after Bolzano, at Ora. Drive up the Val di Fiemme to Predazzo, then up the Val di Fassa to Canazei. Continue on up to Passo Fedaia and then descend to Malga Ciapela. From the car park at Malga Ciapela take path no. 610 to Rifugio Onorato Falier (2080m), nestled beneath the South Face of the Marmolada (1.15 hrs from Malga Ciapela). For the routes situated on Punta Penia, continue on past Rif. Falier along path no. 610 to Rif. Contrin (2016m) located between the Val Contrin and the Val Rosalia.

ACCESS

From Rif. Falier follow path no. 610, to the narrow hairpin bends where it points up to Passo d'Ombretta (west); traverse right (east) across alpine meadows upwards to a ramp that leads up the pedestal to the base of the routes.

DESCENT

Follow the piste to the half-way station of the Malga Ciapela cable car.

GEAR

Two 50 m ropes, 15 quickdraws, slings.

NOTES

First ascended in summer 2000 over a four-day period from the ground-up, using aid only to place the bolts on lead.

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DIFFICULTY

8a

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7b

FACE

Sud

LENGTH

660m

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