Il vecchio leone e la giovane fifona - Primo Spigolo Tofana di Rozes
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Planetmountain
Another fun and nice da Pozzo route up the Primo Spigolo of the Tofana di Rozes. First ascended together with Natasha Alexander in July 2006, from the large ledge at circa 100-150m beneath the summit it shares the final two pitches with "Aspettando la vetta" before continuing up with the classic 1946 "Primo Spigolo." A descent is possible from this large ledge using two 60m ropes and abseiling to a belay circa 2m to the right of the terrace which is used by Via Alverà-Pompanin. The max 7a, obligatory 6b climbing is up excellent quality rock: not to be missed!
Drive to Rifugio Dibona, at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. This is reached from Cotina by driving towards Passo Falzarego, past Pocol and few hairpin bends, and turning off right up onto the dirt track following signs for the refuge.
AccessApproach this climb by walking up to the base of the pillar from Rifugio Dibona. The route starts to the left of "Aspettando la vetta" on the obvious rightwards slanting ramp. Allow about 30 minutes for the walk-in.
DescentTraverse along the ledge towards the Punta Marietta buttress. Walk down the scree and ledges to the base of the buttress, and then walk around this on exposed terrain. Now descend past huge boulders to Rifugio Giussani.
GearFull rack, two 60m ropes. Take a set of small cams, from blue to green Totem, and slings to extend the gear.
NotesDespite being bolt protected run-outs are not uncommon...
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