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Le Fou de l’Aiguille

First ascent: G. Long, R.V ogler, 1986
By: Roberto Rossi
Area: Graian Alps, Group: Mont Blanc, Peak: Aiguille du Midi, Country: France

A beautiful and varied route. The second pitch, a perfect 45m crack, belongs to the Mazeaud. A short traverse left (bolt) is followed by two yosemite-like pitches with a series of finger and hand jams, and overhanging laybacks. The final pitch climbs a delicate crimpy vertical wall up close to an incredible arête. Definitely one of the best routes on Mont Blanc.

ACCESS

Take the Aiguille du Midi cable car, then descend briefly on foot (or abseil if the weather is stable and you're sure you'll finish the route). Alternatively, if coming from Punta Helbronner, cross the Vallée Blanche.

DESCENT

Abseil more or less down the line of ascent; there are many abseil stations, make sure to chose the best carefully!

GEAR

Small nuts and two sets of small friends & TCUs.

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COMMENTS for the route "Le Fou de l’Aiguille"

26-07-2003, gio giovanni
un delle più belle vie in fessura di tutto il Monte Bianco. Da non perdere assolutamente.
Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

ABO-, 7b max

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6c

FACE

S

LENGTH

200m

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