Distensione - Monte Spitz
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Alessio Roverato
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Distensione: Alessio Roverato and Angela Carraro climbing Distensione © Samuel Scotton
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Beauty
First ascent
Alessio Roverato and Angela Carraro. First ascent winter 2016/2017
By
Alessio Roverato
Orientation
South
Length
180m
Height
1093m
Difficulty
7a+
Obligatory difficulty
6c
Route
Pleasant climb that searches for the line of least resistance up the most repulsive section of the west pillar of Monte Spitz.
Getting there
From Valsuguna drive into Val Gadena and park at the start of the valley, just before the closed road sign. Itinerary
P1: 20m, 6b
ACCESS 1: from Valsuguna drive into Val Gadena and park at the start of the valley, just before the closed road sign. Walk up the forest road for a few hundred meters, then take the path CAI #785 path on the right and follow this to the base of the pillar. At this point, turn left following a track that coasts the face to reach the base of the route (1.00 hour).
ACCESS 2: reach the village Stoner and from here continue along the road that finishes at the top of Mont Spitz. Park your car at the lay-by at the summit and walk down the CAI path that leads down into Valsugana until you reach the base of the West Pillar. Now skirt the face until you reach the base of the route (0.30 hour)
AccessFrom Valsuguna drive into Val Gadena and park at the start of the valley, just before the closed road sign. Itinerary
P1: 20m, 6b
P2: 30m, 7a+
P3: 15m, 6a
P4: 30m, 7a+
P5: 25m, 6a
P6: 20m, 6a
P7: 20m, 6a
P8: 20m, IV
Descent
Option 1: From the last belay traverse left for a few meters, scramble diagonally right up the grassy ramp that leads to the ridge and from here continue up to the top of the West Pillar (grade II scramble). At this point continue rightwards along CAI path #800 to the fork with the CAI path #785. At this point, if you parked the car at the entrance to Val Gadena, follow the #785 downhill (1.00 hour), otherwise follow #800 to the top of Monte Spitz (0.30 minutes).
Option 2: Abseil down the route Gear
11 quickdraws and 2 x 60m half ropes
Option 1: From the last belay traverse left for a few meters, scramble diagonally right up the grassy ramp that leads to the ridge and from here continue up to the top of the West Pillar (grade II scramble). At this point continue rightwards along CAI path #800 to the fork with the CAI path #785. At this point, if you parked the car at the entrance to Val Gadena, follow the #785 downhill (1.00 hour), otherwise follow #800 to the top of Monte Spitz (0.30 minutes).
Option 2: Abseil down the route Gear
11 quickdraws and 2 x 60m half ropes
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Beauty
First ascent
Alessio Roverato and Angela Carraro. First ascent winter 2016/2017
By
Alessio Roverato
Orientation
South
Length
180m
Height
1093m
Difficulty
7a+
Obligatory difficulty
6c
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
22/05/2017 - Climbing
Distensione, new rock climb in Val Gadena by Alessio Roverato and Angela Carraro The report and topo by Alessio Roverato of the new multi-pitch rock climb Distensione (180m, 7a+ max, 6c+ obl) on Monte Spiz in Val Gadena (Valsugana Italy), established with Angela...