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Magnificat

First ascent: Eraldo Meraldi on 02/09/2016. FFA: Eraldo Meraldi, Adrio Giusti 06/09/2016
By: Eraldo Meraldi, Mountain Guide
Area: Northern Apennines, Group: Appennino Tosco-Emiliano, Peak: Capo d'Uomo Argentario, Height: 350m, Country: Italy, Region: Tuscany

The rock on pitch 1 requires a little care, and this leads to the big corner where, every now and then, the fact that you need to add some natural pro adds a bit of spice to the climb. Pitch 3 climbs a beautiful face before finishing up a technical corner.


As usual, when you top out here, you sit down, take in the view and contemplate about the sea and the scents that come from the Mediterranean bush. You share these moments with your climbing partner and return home happy and satisfied, knowing that you’ve just experienced a great day outdoors.

The route is dedicated to the late Roberto Iannilli.

GETTING THERE

Reach the island of Argentario in Tuscany and drive to Porto Santo Stefano.

ACCESS

At the first roundabout at the port turn left and drive up Vallone del Campone for circa 3,5 km. At the fork turn off left and park immediately after having driven over the hill, with view onto the sea. Walk down the dirt road to circa 300m, take the road right to reach the large curve which ascends upwards. From here take the path which breaks off left to then follow the ridge towards to the tower. Close to the tower scramble down leftwards past the crag, past short steep terrain to reach the base of the cliff. Continue down and coast along the base of the cliff to reach the routes. Take care while walking past the loose scree during the descent (30 minutes).

ROUTE

P1: 5b, 30m
P2: 6b, 20m
P3: 6b+, 30m

GEAR

27 x 10mm bolts + 2 at the belay.

Gear: nuts, friends to #3 BD, slings, 12 quickdraws, helmet.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

6b+

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6a

FACE

SE

LENGTH

80m

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Magnificat

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LINK

www.guidealpinealtavaltellina.it

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