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Jeo

First ascent: Andrea Oberbacher, Francesco Tremolada (Alta Badia Guides, Corvara)
By: Francesco Tremolada, Mountain Guide
Area: Dolomites, Group: Sella, Peak: Col de Stagn, Sella, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige

Jeo is the latest modern sport climb to be established up the East Face of Col de Stagn, after the hugely popular Eva Dorme (6b+ max) and its easier neighbour Ludomania (6a max).

Of the three routes currently on this face, Jeo is certainly the most difficult due to the second pitch which steep and requires stamina. The climbing is never straight forward and along the easier sections the gear is slightly more run-out.

Take some slings and small camming devices. In some sections the rock will need some further cleaning.

GETTING THERE

Reach Corvara - Alta Badia, Dolomites

DESCENT

From the last belay scramble to the summit of Col de Stagn and quickly reach the Kostner al Vallon hut. From here the chairlift takes you quickly back to the Boè cable car, alternatively walk down path #638.

GEAR

15 quickdraws, a rack of small camming devices

NOTES

Of the three routes currently on this face, Jeo is certainly the most difficult due to the second pitch which steep and requires stamina. The climbing is never straight forward and along the easier sections the gear is slightly more run-out. In some sections the rock will need some further cleaning.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

7a

FACE

SE

LENGTH

185m

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LINK

www.altabadiaguides.com

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